Saturday, November 17, 2007

2003 Lemelson Jerome Reserve Pinot Noir


I have always been a fan of Pinot Noir, drinking Burgundies even before I knew the grape was Pinot. When I lived in LA, Napa and Santa Barbara Pinots were always my go to wine in the store or on a wine list, and they were cheaper than French and Italian wines. Since moving back to CT, I have had the good fortune of learning about Oregon Pinots from my friends at the Fountainhead. Small producers like Cameron, Thomas, E.I.E.I.O., J. Christopher, and Patty Green who bring to their wines a sense of teroir and passion.

The first Oregon Pinot I had was from Benton Lane in 1998 or '99. It has a postage stamp on the label, and I thought, huh, an Oregon Pinot. It was probably 18 bucks or so (a moderate wine for me then) and I gave it a shot. Not as fruity as the Cali Pinots I was used to, but it packed flavor and depth. This was my new house wine. Now I probably would not drink a wine from Benton Lane since they are somewhat mass produced.

I fell in love with the 2000 or 2001 Lemelson Jerome Reserve (Willamette Valley) which Mike from the Fountainhead told me to buy. A husband and wife team - they own their vineyards and winery (I think) and buy some grapes here and there. I am not sure if he is the winemaker as well, but whatever the case, they care about the harmony between the soil, the sun, and the grapes as well as the finished product in the bottle. Sadly, they are no longer distributed in CT.

We drank five bottles of the '01 and put one away. The '02 vintage was superb as well, again drank 5 and put one away. The '03 was not as good - I have been drinking a bottle every seven months or so since I got it to see how it develops. Now I have one away and am on the last bottle I can drink. Every once and awhile with this system, I regret ever opening a bottle. And such it is with this wine.

This round of the Lemelson is of course the best. Black currant, bbq smoke, flowery high notes dried herbs all abound on the nose. Mellow in the mouth, with mild tannins, supporting muted fruit - dried cherry, almost candied wild raspberry at times. With 13.9% alcohol, you would think it would be hotter than it is but the bc (booze content) is very relaxed in taste, with a fit structure that supports the light fruit. Another wine you can get in trouble with and drink all night. Because of the limited quantity (only a 6 pack) and the cost ($32 wholesale) I never put it on the list because I am selfish and wanted it all for myself!

I have always thought a freshly shot game bird, quail comes to mind, is the perfect pairing with Pinot, but since my wife is a pasta chickaterian, I roasted a freshly plucked Balducci's chicken with salt roasted potatoes and brussells sprouts. Close to perfection on a lazy Saturday night.

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