2002 Radio-Coteau Las Colinas

11.23.07 Dinner at American Seasons In Nantucket

I have been searching for my notes to no avail. All the wines we had were great. Will continue looking and will fill in notes when I can. Let's just say it was after Thanksgiving with some good friends and I was on cold medication.

2002 Antonelli Sagrantino di Montefalco

So I ended up going to Paci tonight as Jamie did not need me at the restaurant and Courtenay forbade me from making anything in the kitchen - she is already in Nantucket for the week. I ran into the DiNardo brothers, Peter and Lenny. I went to college with Peter, but didn't really get to know him until the last few years in Fairfield - we all favor the same restaurants and wine stores!

Point being, they hosted me on a bottle they were drinking and I returned the favor with the Antonelli, which Nino, the som/host/manager suggested, and which I drank the last time I was there - see previous post. Anyway, I do not think they liked it as much as they only had a glass each, but who knows how much they had to drink before I got there!

Opening up, this Sagrantino is super dry (as they all are) but much more floral and fruity than the Beas I am used to, plus only $67 on the list. Nose almost of sherry or port with hints of alcohol, dried prunes, allspice and something else, served a bit to cold as well. Dense blackberry, dark chocolate, a little medicinal on the tongue. Definitely not tasting as well as the last time I had it - but it could be me. Tannins are surprisingly mellow for the grape - again the last time I had it was superb - I'm sure I will have it again, and will anote the post when that happens!

2002 Ruston Cuvee Simone

Yes, that is a half bottle. From Rob Mackin's porch sale, I was able to secure many an interesting bottle of vino with some nice age as well. This blend from Ruston is 50% Merlot, 25% Cab Franc, 16% Syrah, 9% Cab Sauvignon. An interesting blend that I thought I would like more.

To start off, it is way too cold. The case was on Rob's porch for a few days (not below 40 in CT) and in my living room for two days (not below 50) but still doesn't allow for proper tasting. The nose is a little muddled, the flavor is a little too rasiny with notes of Robitussin possibly? Also I am at the onset of a runny nose so maybe it is not the best time to taste and review wine? I will come back to it again - as I have a case to drink!

I did not review the 2004 Ruston Cab Sav we had last month because it was way far away from drinking properly. It was so tannic, that after it was decanted for and hour it still would skin your knee.

My Wine Cellars /Storage Places

I/m sure everyone is wondering, where do I keep all of my wine! Here are the pics for my many hiding spots. One of my chores this summer was turning my man zone into a wine cellar and tasting room, but that never happened. SEE below. Eventhough this pic is on it's side, you can tell it is a closet for wine. It is in my garage that is temp controlled at about 54 degrees. This is the first stop in storage for wines that are ready to be drunk. Right now I have about 150 wines in there that are the right age and can be consumed at any time. I jusr redid it yesterday to add 36 more wines I got a Rob Mackin's porch sale. I reorganized all whites, European wines, Pinot Noir and American blends.



This is my Indonesian wine chest in my living room that I have had since 1998. It is separate from the main part of our house, so I leave the heat on 50. It is usually pretty chilly unless we have guests over. It holds 30 or so wines and booze. These are showcase wines that can be drunk - ie. Sean Thackrey flight, my 3 Bordeauxs, inexpensive Rhones, etc...



This was the first part of my cellar buildout. I got the cheapest racking system and you get what you pay for. Even with the 15 wines here, it is a little flimsy. These are wines that can be drunk, but I probably should not because they are so good. The Lemelson came from this storage area. Also a couple of Quintarellis, my Denner Syrah, White Rose Pinot, etc... The temp is again low, but I will have to move these wines this winter as it tends to get around 65 or so because of the boiler in the unfinished part about 25 feet away.



This is the cave in my basement. It is the original 1710 oven and reaches back 6 or so feet. This was the original wine storage area until my collection grew. It holds about 130 wines that cannot be drunk anytime soon. I store all the wines I want to age here, and it sometimes get raided, but most of the wines you cannot drink b/c they are too young! The temp is always 55 or so and the wines always come out at the perfect temp!

2003 Lemelson Jerome Reserve Pinot Noir

I have always been a fan of Pinot Noir, drinking Burgundies even before I knew the grape was Pinot. When I lived in LA, Napa and Santa Barbara Pinots were always my go to wine in the store or on a wine list, and they were cheaper than French and Italian wines. Since moving back to CT, I have had the good fortune of learning about Oregon Pinots from my friends at the Fountainhead. Small producers like Cameron, Thomas, E.I.E.I.O., J. Christopher, and Patty Green who bring to their wines a sense of teroir and passion.

The first Oregon Pinot I had was from Benton Lane in 1998 or '99. It has a postage stamp on the label, and I thought, huh, an Oregon Pinot. It was probably 18 bucks or so (a moderate wine for me then) and I gave it a shot. Not as fruity as the Cali Pinots I was used to, but it packed flavor and depth. This was my new house wine. Now I probably would not drink a wine from Benton Lane since they are somewhat mass produced.

I fell in love with the 2000 or 2001 Lemelson Jerome Reserve (Willamette Valley) which Mike from the Fountainhead told me to buy. A husband and wife team - they own their vineyards and winery (I think) and buy some grapes here and there. I am not sure if he is the winemaker as well, but whatever the case, they care about the harmony between the soil, the sun, and the grapes as well as the finished product in the bottle. Sadly, they are no longer distributed in CT.

We drank five bottles of the '01 and put one away. The '02 vintage was superb as well, again drank 5 and put one away. The '03 was not as good - I have been drinking a bottle every seven months or so since I got it to see how it develops. Now I have one away and am on the last bottle I can drink. Every once and awhile with this system, I regret ever opening a bottle. And such it is with this wine.

This round of the Lemelson is of course the best. Black currant, bbq smoke, flowery high notes dried herbs all abound on the nose. Mellow in the mouth, with mild tannins, supporting muted fruit - dried cherry, almost candied wild raspberry at times. With 13.9% alcohol, you would think it would be hotter than it is but the bc (booze content) is very relaxed in taste, with a fit structure that supports the light fruit. Another wine you can get in trouble with and drink all night. Because of the limited quantity (only a 6 pack) and the cost ($32 wholesale) I never put it on the list because I am selfish and wanted it all for myself!

I have always thought a freshly shot game bird, quail comes to mind, is the perfect pairing with Pinot, but since my wife is a pasta chickaterian, I roasted a freshly plucked Balducci's chicken with salt roasted potatoes and brussells sprouts. Close to perfection on a lazy Saturday night.

2003 Ferro Carlo Barbera D'Asti "Roche"

I am not a big fan of Barbera or Barbaresco in general - I just never have had that many that I love at the right price - so I was really jazzed when when I tried the Roche in the 2000 bottling. It was fantastic so I put it on the list.

The problem with our wine list is that we love Italian wines, but they really do not go with our food. SEE sample menu and last year's wine list: BONDA

So I took this Roche off the list when we sold out of our stock (last weekend) but now I kind of regret it. Just off the nose, I love this wine. Seductive cherry, currant, bay, hints of cola, following on a mellow mouthfeel with medium tannins enough to balance the dark berry fruit with an airplane glue finish - I mean that in a good way, almost like a Pepe. Not dry, not wet - just right. It is definately a red teeth wine and needs big food.

For Court I made spinach and ricotta ravioli, for myself meatballs in the same basic tomato sauce with some bread. Another peasant meal for an enlightened Italian. On the list I think it is in the high 50s.

2006 Cameron Giuliano

Cameron calls this wine Oregon White Table Wine. That is it. It is named after his son and is the third vintage that I have tried. Each one has its own field blend of grapes and is unique and delish in its own right. I do not know what the 06 has in it, but surely some Pinot Gris, Riesling, perhaps Chardonnay? It is sure great whatever he has thrown in there.

It is made in the same playful spirit as his Cameroni (an Italian blend), his Pinko Rosso which has a picture of Che on it, and his Screaming Ego which has a pic of Icarus on the label and is only sold in magnums in a handful of Portland restaurants. He only collects when they sell a bottle. John Paul (Cameron) reaps what the earth gives him with all organic vineyards and non-iragated vines. I have always loved his Pinots and single vineyard Chardonnays that are truly Oregonian.

For the '06 Giuliano, the nose gives a bit of honey, white pepper, and mellow white flowers (not sweet). On the tongue, crispy minerals with bass notes of pine sap. I can find no fault with this wine, I really, really like it, but I am not over the moon swooning over it.

To compliment the wine, I made an asian inspired broth of ginger, garlic and shallot to which I added sauteed cod and noodles. Something you would have at an asian bar with a nice Riesling. A peasant dish for a table wine!

I don't remember the cost of the wine, another fountainhead import, but I'm sure it was between $18 and $24 on the shelf. A great Oregon blend, 4 of 5 glasses.

2005 Dom. du Pavillon-Mercurol Crozes Hermitage

Another wine I picked up from the fountainhead a few weeks ago. I am trying to build my under $25, drinkable wine cellar, instead of my $50 should not be drinking for two to ten years wine cellar. My in-laws are snowbirding it to Florida for a few days, so my wife wanted to have them over for a meal. I made a stewy, gumbo type meal with many beans, rice and sausage. It turned out quite delish. I thought the Crozes would be a good pairing.

As soon as I opened this syrah blend, I knew that my father-in-law, Jim, would like this wine. Smokey pencil lead on the nose, with whaffs of charcoal and dark, dark chocolate without any sweetness at all. On the tongue, almost bitter, with savory notes of black pepper, bay leaf, bitter earth - almost scorched - and whole juniper berries. Medium tannins, with no fruit, not super rich and heavy, but not a lightweight either. Having said this, it is a fantastic wine, but could have used another year or two to balance out. As I thought, it did go nicely with the gumbo.

2004 McCrea Roussanne

I loved the 2002 vintage of this wine but it was way too expensive for the restaurant, as no one would order a $54 Roussanne from Washington State. Our distributor offered us a deal, so I bought a case of the 2004. Cuttings from the Tablas Creek Beaucastel vines - another great American Roussanne - this white is one of the nine white Rhone grapes, usually blended with Marsanne and others, but shines with this single varietal bottling.

With a nose of peach blossoms and sweet pea, hinting cumin with notes of nutmeg and white pepper - very complex with sweet and savory essense. On the tongue, not super rich, but not flabby either - dried apricot, notes of lychee but not too sweet or cloying. Candied grapes, maybe muscat, and a bass note of something....

Courtenay tasted it and wished she could drink more, so I know it is a great wine!

2001 Arcadian Lafond Vineyard Pinot Noir

Since my father was not around in Bridgehampton this trip, I decided to open one of his wines to see how it is tasting. Beautiful would be the word to describe it.

2004 La Spinetta Langhe Nebiollo

In Bridgehampton for the weekend. Zilia cooked an osso bucco for dinner with some friends and figured I would supply a nice Italian to compliment the dish. I went to Morrells and found the La Spinetta.

I wasn't that impressed for the price - $83. It had good fruit and a nice balance of tannins and acid, but I would not buy it again.

2005 Cuilleron Tasting

I really wish I could find my notes from this night at the Coopers. The Syrah Rose was a bit of a disappointment, but the other Syrahs were simply devine as they usually are. Les Candives was a little tight and needs some more time in the bottle. But the others were floral with length, medium to full tannins and great fruit.

1999 Ferraton Pere et Fils Ermitage Le Meal

Jamie came over after the restaurant closed and brought a bottle of 1999 Ferraton Pere et Fils Ermitage Le Meal, which he picked up at the Fountainhead earlier this evening. The bottle had been sitting in his car, so it was cold, but opened with a spicy nose - reminiscent of church incense. Totally closed up on the tongue, but carrying over that churchy, full spiced mouth.

Decanted for a bit, we waited, and warmed the glasses - looked at the wine in the Juliska decanter which Kim had given to me earlier this year. From the Rhone Valley, we thinks the primary grape is Syrah, and it smells and tastes like a Syrah, although not as silky and elegant as the Cuillerons we had in September (see previous blogs).

Upon reading the label, the wine is biodynamic - meaning it is organic plus ten. The vines are planted and treated with the movements of the earth and tides and moon cycles and a bunch of other eco-friendly lets love our Earth Mother and have her provide us some great grapes kinda stuff. We have never had a bad wine made in this fashion, so I have to believe it works.

Bacon fat on the tongue, following with blooming dark fruit, black pepper and smokey Roman Catholic incense. Too early to tell where it is going, but we are both ready for the journey and like the start.

9.14.07/ 2003 Le Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf du Pape and 2003 Domaine Tempier Le Tourtine

Ugh, what a horrible experience tasting this wine. Colman brought the bottle and was very pumped to open it (that is him in the picture marveling at how bad it was). The Donjon is one of the classic examples of CdP but this showed very poorly. It was disgustingly sweet - almost as if it had been cooked. Mealy in the mouth and just plain awful. The nose was outstanding though.

Colman claimed that 2003 had just been an off year for Southern Rhone but even in a bad year, a good producer can make a fine wine. To prove my point, I grabbed a bottle of 2003 Dom. Tempier Le Tourtine - a single vineyard Mouvedre/Cinsault blend - and cracked it. It was fragrant and tannic. We decanted it for about 45 mins (drank a different wine) then came back and it was heavenly compared to the Donjon. Possibly too young, but it was our sample bottle, so we had to try it for the list!

Still tannic, but mellowed into dry dark fruit, notes of dried apricot, roasted plum, not juicy but delish.

4 of 5 glasses!

9.14.07/ 1999 Yves Cuilleron Saint Joseph “L’Amarybelle”

While we were waiting for the Les Serines to mellow out (see previous post) we opened the L'Amarybelle which we have had in past vintages (03 and 04). It was astounding that it could taste so different than the Les Serine while being the same grape from the same region. And it wasn't because Les Serine was an off bottle.

The L'Amarybelle was subtle, but in your face at the same time. Totally balanced with tannins and fruit. It had the smoky tar, but the sweet innocent raspberry to lighten it up. It was beautiful by itself, and nicely complimented the grilled leg of lamb I snacked on while tasting the lucious fruit.

We decanted it, and I kept stealing sips while our friends tried to figure out what to open next!

09.14.07/1999 Yves Cuilleron Saint Joseph “Les Serines”

It all goes back to trying wines in Nantucket. For Jamie and Kim's engagement, we sent them a bottle of wine at the hotel where they stayed the night they got engaged - the Waiwinnet in Nantucket. My friend Matt (who was the former Wine and Spirits Manager at Craft) looked at the list and said - get them the Cuilleron! It was a white Condrieu and they said it was one of the best wines they ever had. The next time we had an opportunity to buy Cuilleron, Matt steered us in the right direction and selected a few different regions for the reds. All 2002 and 2003 vintages, we probably drank them too young but they were delish.

Jamie found a bottle of the 1999 Les Serines (of which we have two cases of 2004) and we opened it up with some friends - see post below. It was smoky tarrific - almost to the point of not being able to drink. We let it sit for awhile and opened another bottle, but it never really came around to being delish. It was too young. At 8 years! The primary grape is syrah, but nothing elegant and silky like you would expect. It was more like a pinotage from South Africa. Needless to say we were a little worried about the 04s, but see my posts later for that tasting!

09.14.07 A Real Barn-Burner Blowout

Aways back, lets say September 14th, my friend Jay came to visit and play golf for a Friday/ Saturday stay. We went down to BONDA and Jamie had some wines he wanted to try. I informed our friend and sometimes stand-in Colman to come in adn try the wines as well. He brought a bottle as well. And then for good measure, we opened two more.

2006 J. Christopher Cuvee Lunatique

This 100% unoaked, no malo, Oregon Chardonnay from the Willamette Valley is OK in my book. It is clean and pure much like a Chablis and has a secondary layer of spice. The nose is a little moldy apple, with some guava notes. The mouthfeel is moderate and steely - would go nicely with an asian shrimp dish, but nothing too rich as it still is a chardonnay.

The guys from the Fountainhead have been importing J. Sommers line for a few years, and I have never truly been a huge fan of his whites, but I will drink them over most other American wines any day.

3 of 5 glasses