Fairfield County Wine Tasting Appreciation Society Merlot Dinner

Yes, the name is a bit of a joke. Some friends of mine (6 of them) started coming to BONDA three years ago once a month for Open That Bottle Night.

They would choose a wine theme, Shiraz, California, 2003 Pinot, etc.... and each contribute a bottle and judge who brought the best. Jamie and I would dip in here and there, trying some of the wines and adding our two cents.

The natural evolution turned to pairing 2 people together to bring in better wines, which begat buying wines at auction for the group. I have been participating off an on for the last 18 months, and was lucky enough to make it to last night's Merlot tasting.

The first wine was a 750 ml of 2003 Etude Merlot from Napa Valley. It was sweet on the nose, with a medium body and mild tannins. Not a lot of fruit for a Cali Merlot - which is good -but a handful of oak, and a hint of bitterness in the finish. We were having a bit of Roaring Forties blue cheese, which I thought "muted" the wine - Sam said "it goes well!"

Quotes:

"smooth", "straight forward", "playing it safe", "solid", "I could drink this everyday" - although I think this was facetious.

Next up was a magnum of 2001 Fisher Vineyards 157 Estate Merlot. We decanted this for about an hour, maybe more and drank it with our first course, mostly bacon dishes. I had bacon with fingerling potatoes and onions, which really complemented the vino.

On the nose, I thought the Fisher resembled a Montepulciano, specifically a 1998 Pepe. Super high toned fruit, with acetone, fig and cherry. I was in love with the nose, I wanted to drink the nose. On the palate it was a little disappointing with mild fruit, medium tannins and a touch of bitterness in the finish. It definitely did not live up to the nose. Sam said it tasted like rotten tomatoes.

It was great to try these Merlots as they really bucked the thought of Cali Merlot being big fruit bombs.

The last Magnum we had was a 2003 Peterson Family Merlot. Unfortunately my pen ran out of ink, but this wine was awesome and won the night. Bizarre in that it did not resemble a Merlot, but more like a well balanced Zin. Gobs of black fruit, spice, with a touch of oak. After decanting for two hours, it could have gone longer. This wine with last for at least 15 years. Go buy some now!

Sorry I forgot to take some pics, but it was a busy night at the restaurant and Jamie left early!

2003 St. Innocent Pinot Noir White Rose Vineyard

Once again, my wife has abandoned me and our two sons, Cooper and Gray. I am supposed to be at BONDA for the 1st Fairfield County Wine Tasting Appreciation Society dinner, however due to a scheduling mix-up, I am with the boys and Court is with her girls at a birthday dinner at the Fat Cat.

As Cooper dances to Jack Johnson's Curious George soundtrack, I am cracking a bottle of my favorite Pinot, the White Rose Vineyard bottling for Oregon producer, St. Innocent. This is a very special wine for me as it is the first Oregon Pinot Noir I had where I realized that this was my thing. I had drunk some Benton Lane, and few other so so producers and liked Oregon Pinot, but the 2002 St. Innocent White Rose really made me say, YES, this is what I like in a Pinot Noir.

I bought a case of 2003 and have two or three bottles left.

10.02.08: I was so disappointed with this wine after all the build-up that I couldn't finish this post. I think I had a dead bottle. It wasn't bad, but it had no life.

2003 Panther Creek Shea Vineyard

I opened a bottle of this Oregon Pinot on New Year's Eve for the Big Battle of Pinot from around the world. Everyone gave it a favorable review. Tonight my wife was drinking a glass of white (Ramey Sonoma Coast Chardonay) so I decided to look for a red to go with our curry, and found this bottle.

Off the bat, really tight, tannic and showing little fruit. I let it rest for awhile and came back to bright cherry (I hate that descrip), with some wild dark red berries, and notes of spice. The tannins dance in and out. Harsh one sip, mellow the next. The Tikka Chicken Curry was a little spicy, with an Algerian Cous Cous of sauteed yellow squash, garlic, asparagus and peas. Possibly not the best pairing, but it worked OK.

I let the wine sit for a little longer. Candied blackberries, leather, developed, following on the tongue - totally fruitier wine with the firm tannins supporting. Definitely can go in the bottle for another 5 years, and in the glass a few hours.

Checking back in, still the big fruit, but not goby and gooey like a Napa Cab. Little oak (probably the least of all the Panther Creeks) developing a vegetal /forrest floor quality - not Bordeaux like - but totally groovy, laid back Oregon style Pinot wet newspaperish. Still has the cherry edge, and stabilizing tannins.

I look forward to trying the '04s and '05s I have.

2003 Domaine Serene Chardonnay Cote Sud Vineyard

This Oregon Chard is one of our favorites that I have been saving for a couple of years. Not for anything in particular, but we burned through about 10 bottles in two years, and I wanted to see how it would age, considering it is oft compared to a Grand Cru Burgundy.

Court recognized the bottle when I pulled it out and got excited. I cracked the top, poured a little sip and was disappointed. Either it was a cooked bottle or the wine was past its prime. I'm hanging onto the hope that it was just an off bottle. I down played my disappointment, but Court recognized right away it wasn't what she expected and almost spit it out.

Cry cry, wah wah. I think we drank half of it anyway before opening something else.

07.11.08 / 2003 Drew Syrah Rodney and Lardner Vineyard

As I have mentioned before, Drew is one of my all time favorite Syrah producers. I have been eying this 2003 for awhile, and decided to crack it a few weeks ago, jotting down some notes and stuffing them in the back pocket of a pair of pants. I put on said pants last night and found a crinkled washed envelope, with some notes scribbled on the back.

Totally awesome. Buttered blackberry. Pepper leather on the nose. Hints of allspice and clove.

If you can find any of this wine, I would recommend buying it, and drinking it. It will probably last for another 5 to 8 years, but is really good now. Oh yeah, only 80 cases were made.

2003 Pompois Anjou

Another red that has been sitting around to try for BONDA. Here is my review for the list:

From Anjou, France, this solid Cab Franc features old vines and soil on the nose, with dusty subtle fruit on the palate and a touch of sweetness.

2003 Nicolas Reau Garance

This is a great red that has been sitting around for a few weeks that I needed to try for the restaurant. Here is my review for the wine list: From Chinon, France, this Syrah blend features a spicy nose, with notes potting soil and blackberries. Following on the tongue with roasted peppers, muted fruit and soapstone dryness and hints of Ribeye grizzle. Awesome example of French terrior.

03.18.08 /RGWD 2003 Le Cigare Volant

To close out the evening, we had one of Randall's signature wines, Le Cigare Volant, of the famed 2003 vintage. He said it was his homage to Chauteauneuf de Pape with a 5 grapes blend of Grenache, Mouvedre, Syrah, Cinsault and one other grape. I did not like this wine as much as everyone else seemed to moon over it. I found it to be a little acidic and featured a lot of sweet cherry and pine flavours. I did not order any for the restaurant, even though our sales person really wanted us to put it on our list.

2003 Nigl Gruner Veltliner Kemstel Freheight

Unfortunately like the Brundlmeyer, this Gruner is a little lacking. I am used to very high end Gruner. Not to sound snobby, but the Nigl Privat and Nigl Alte Reben are far superior to this vineyard. I do not know if it is the age or vintage - usually Gruners age like great burgundy.

Watered down, somewhat bitter and flaborious.

2003 Cascina Garita Bricco Garitta Barbera d'Asti

This Barbera is a wine imported by the boys at the Fountainhead, that I have loved since the 1998 vintage. It was the first wine we had by the glass at BONDA, and keep circling it every year when the timing and supply is right. The wine is unfined and unfiltered, and can throw off some serious sediment.

This bottle though, is just right. Featuring a nose of dried plums, eucalyptus, acetone, herbaceous leather and pepper. Not an overbearing wine - you can drink it alone - but not that light either. This vintage offers big high toned fruit like bosenberry or gooseberry without being fruity by a dry, smooth, lingering finish. Medium tannins support and grip the tongue.

I remember the first night I fell in love with the '98 vintage. I was by myself in our Rowayton apartment in the fall of 2002 - Jamie was a away for the weekend and I hadn't started dating my wife yet. I had lasagna take-out from Abbondanza and cracked the bricco. I hadn't loved the wine when I first tasted it, but Mark gave me a bottle "for my head". I had a glass, nice I thought. Had another with my meal and the bottle was soon empty. I left a message for Mark praising the wine and have been a loyal follower ever since!

Now here is the hard part of my job. I love the wine, but entering into the summer is not the best time for it to be by the glass. I would love to have it on the list as an inexpensive Italian at 34 bucks, but the minimum is a 2 case order? I would also like some for myself, so maybe I will order the two cases, keep 1 and put one on the list! Decisions, decisions.

02.22.08 / 2003 Sean Thackery Andromeda Pinot Noir Devil's Gulch Vineyard

I have a couple of these in my cellar, but I saw they had some with Thackery's distributor, so I ordered a bottle for us to try at BONDA. It was a little disappointing, as it was neither delish nor corked - just closed.

2003 Ruston Semillon Juliana Vineyard

My wife will be the guest blogger tonight. Take it away Court.

As I sat in the kitchen taking a deep breath after an anxiety ridden day of concerns about my health and a few scratches on my car I was relieved when I looked across the counter to find a newly opened bottle of 2003 Ruston, Semillon from the Juliana vineyard. It is hard when you are six months pregnant and you know you can only enjoy a glass at most, nonetheless I was jubilant at the notion of a clean and smooth glass of wine, even if it was only going to be one.

With a floral nose of underlying hints of caramel the taste on my lips was similar, only to be surpassed by strong notes of white chocolate and dried apricot on the palette. The medium bodied Ruston was simple in its complexity, even in its tones. It was as though there was a precise distribution of flavors that lent to a harmoniously mellow wine. It certainly transcended my mind to this mellow state. Too bad I can't have another...I think the little man in my belly liked it too!

01.13.08 Dinner Party at Jamie and Kim's

We started off the night with a great magnum of NV Prosecco, which went into











a 2004 Scheuller Riesling from Alsace, into



















a Mag of 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon from Alto Adige, into











a 1978 Barolo into











a 1998 Barolo.



The Russells, Kingstons, Court and myself were the guests. All the wines were great. The Mags were a Christmas gift from Rob Mackin, I brought the Schueller, Bill brought the '78 Barolo and Sam brought the '98 Barolo. Jamie made some great hors d'oeurves, a parsnip soup, and a beef bourginon from BONDA.

A good time all around.

01.16.08 2003 Fratelli Alessandria San Lorenzo Barolo

From the Noble Nebbiolo, this Barolo is a wine from a vineyard we do not normally by from - we prefer the Monvigliero - but in the DI tasting, the San Lorenzo really shined.

Upfront big cherry with black licorice anise and evergreen. Bill thoughts loads of alcohol, eventhough we decanted it for a good 1/2 hour. Definitely needs food. Jamie and I split an order of three meat ragu and the wine sang. Needs more time in the bottle.

Luckily we still have 8 bottles of the 2001 Monvigliero!

01.16.08 2003 Cantina del Pino Barbaresco Ovello

We had a fun night trying new wines at BONDA with Bill and Sam during our dinner to benefit Autism Speaks. Unfortunately it was a very poor showing with only 20 or so people, but it is a weird time of year. We gave 20% of the restaurant proceeds to Autism Speaks, but it did not amount to much.

The first in the lineup was this Barbaresco which I thought was fab when I first tasted it on the DI circuit. Jamie and I really don't dig Barbaresco at all, but this was different. Aged for a bit, single vineyard sourced and a poor year to boot! On the nose there was classic acetone and bicycle tire, with restrained fruit on the palate. Tight tannins, developed into rich plum flavor.

From the Nebbiolo grape, the same for Barolo, this was unique in that we really dug it! Sam and Bill both liked it as well, although they had a bottle of K Syrah Waluke Slope so it was an adjustment for their palates. They had also finished dinner, so it was a tough switch.

Jamie and I had a plate of salami with some parmesan. Very rustico!

2003 Battle Burgundy v. Oregon: '03 Dom. Jean Grivot Nuites-St.-Georges 1er Cru "Les Boudots" v. '03 Panther Creek Shea Vineyard

Suprising upset by the Panther Creek. Again, I got a bunky bottle of the Grivot. It wasn't corked, it wasn't cooked, it just wasn't good. I keep reminding myself how great the '02 was, and keep bumming myself out the the '98 and '03 was just horrible. We left about the 1/2 the bottle. I recommended people try it just to see, and some were polite and others just made a face - I think someone spit it out! One guest commented: "Tasted like high priced mud from the bottom of my well". Needless to say, it was in last place at the end of the night.

Ken Wright founded Panther Creek and after he left in the late 90s, they went through a bit of a rough patch. We have carried their wines for three years and I am always mostly pleased by them. The '03 Shea took the top standing overall, and I sometimes forget how good it is - definitely stands up to my other Oregon favorite small producers, Cameron, Patty Green, E.I.E.I.O., J. Christopher, but has a style all its own. Guest comment: "Shea Vineyard shines. Pencil lead with an edge."

12.21.07 2003 Ch. Rollan de By Cru Bourgeois

I love that the winemaker tells you that this is a wine for the bourgeois. From Medoc, a mostly Merlot blend with 20% Cab Sauvignon and Cab Franc, and a bit of Petit Verdot. Starts off soft and fruity with black and blue berries supported by stiff tannins. A somewhat serious Bordeaux for $50 on the BONDA list. Notes of allspice, leather, dark chocolate and roasted coffee beans. I remember Jamie did not like this wine when we first tasted it - but it had been in his glass for a good hour or so.

It starts off with a bang, but does loose after the hour and a bit mark - although most people would finish the bottle before then anyway, so does it really matter? Again, hopefully this is not a "bargain" wine, 'cause I like it.

2003 Librandi Gravello

This wine has one of those labels that is difficult to suss out exactly what the pertinent information is exactly - very pretty though. From Val Di Neto, Italy - a region that I have never heard of, this wine is Cabernet Sauvignon and Gaglioppo (a grape I have never heard of but achtonomous to the region). It was a gift from a friend of ours who came over for a dinner party on Sunday.

Popping the cork, the wine seemed quite oaked, with a nice concentration of dark cherry, earthy notes and hints of evergreens with a deep garnet but opaque colour. In the glass for a bit, everything changed - high notes of brambleberry, and something quite delish like candied maple, or a pop tart - the oak disapated and a sweetness shone through that was unanticipated. Also developing are deep bass notes with mild tannins and a chared finish that balances the fruit. Look forward to seeing it evolve more and to experience with food.

I made a Batali bolognese to go with the vino. Kudos to Gean for finding such an interesting and delish wine to share.

2003 Miner Family The Oracle

Great Bordeaux style California central coast wine that I thought was highly allocated and a real cult wine. I bought a six pack for the restaurant, thinking that I couldn't taste it beforehand, and it was hard to get. Then Coleman walked into BONDA and said he had tried the wine four times and his rep was always trying to sell him on it. At 400 or so a six pack it is a hard sell for a wine that a lot of people have never heard of.

At first I was disappointed. A neighbor down the road shared a bottle of Miner Family Pinot Noir from Gary's Vineyard at a party this summer. It was pretty delish. She said if I could ever find The Oracle, to get it - so I did and it was a little bunk. After 45 mins or so of decanted it started to open up a bit. Heavy oak bomb, with big California fruit. 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% or so Cab Franc, some Merlot and Malbec as well as Petit Verdot. All sourced from the same vineyard site. We were happy in the end, but will put a caveat on the wine list saying it is too young.

2003 Drew Syrah Rodney and Larner Vineyard

I love Drew's wines, almost everyone of them from Buellton, CA. We always try to feature on of their Syrah's on our list at BONDA. In 2003, only 150 cases of wine from the R & L Vineyard was made. That is only 1800 bottles. Let's say each bottle is shared by four people, that is only 7,200 people who will have the pleasure of drinking this exact wine. Sure there are smaller productions, sure there are people hoarding bottles of wine that may never get drunk, but I like to think that I am sharing in an experience that very few will experience. And I have two bottles.

This bottle is from Rob Makin's legendary porch sale, I would have bought more if he had more to sell. As I have mentioned, I love Syrah and Pinot Noir. Two grapes that really reveal terrior and the winemaker in my book. I mean look at all the tiny producers in Burgundy and the Rhone who produce wines that are so markedly different - same with California, Oregon and Washington - same grapes, totally different climates, conditions, soil, vine age, style etc..... Ah my faves.

Tonight is one of those nights where Court is out with her girlfriends and I am spending some QT with my main man Cooper. We were going to go to BONDA, but it is snowing and the roads could be troublesome. I was going to have a steak and drink the 2003 Oracle from Miner Family with Jamie. There is always tomorrow. Coop and I made a mildly spicy chili, for which I usually favor a Pinot, but I have been looking at this bottle of Drew for the last two weeks with a longing.

Rodney's and Larner Vineyard is in the Santa Ynez Valley, near where my college friend Brian Denner makes Rhone style wines - his best being Denner Syrah. R & L smells like funky Syrah, which is good, then mellows a bit. The colour is dark blueberry/blackberry. Lots of tar, acetone, mangoish rotting tropical fruit on the nose, with whafts of prune. And I mean this in a good way! On the palate, paint with notes of dark broiled fruit and hints of pine, candied baby powder and tight tannins with a real depth - classic Syrah. I love it!