2006 Cristom Mt. Jefferson Cuvee Pinot Noir

When I was sick a few weeks back, some friends of Court came to visit and went to dinner at BONDA. I asked Jamie what they cracked and he paused. He then told me this Cristom is drinking mighty fine. As soon as I got better, I opened a bottle for myself.

Here are my notes:

The nose is pure heaven: oregano, green pepper, ripe red fruit, basil, driftwood, yeasty bread dough with a touch of alcohol.

On the palate, medium tannins, tame fruit, touch of oak with roasted plum.

Not as killer as Jamie would have led me to believe, but definitely drinking well now.

2003 St. Innocent Pinot Noir White Rose Vineyard

Once again, my wife has abandoned me and our two sons, Cooper and Gray. I am supposed to be at BONDA for the 1st Fairfield County Wine Tasting Appreciation Society dinner, however due to a scheduling mix-up, I am with the boys and Court is with her girls at a birthday dinner at the Fat Cat.

As Cooper dances to Jack Johnson's Curious George soundtrack, I am cracking a bottle of my favorite Pinot, the White Rose Vineyard bottling for Oregon producer, St. Innocent. This is a very special wine for me as it is the first Oregon Pinot Noir I had where I realized that this was my thing. I had drunk some Benton Lane, and few other so so producers and liked Oregon Pinot, but the 2002 St. Innocent White Rose really made me say, YES, this is what I like in a Pinot Noir.

I bought a case of 2003 and have two or three bottles left.

10.02.08: I was so disappointed with this wine after all the build-up that I couldn't finish this post. I think I had a dead bottle. It wasn't bad, but it had no life.

2005 Westry Oracle Vineyard Pinot Noir

From Oregon, we had the 2006 in Nantucket, and I found this bottle in my cellar tonight, so I thought I would try it. I am thoroughly disappointed and am not enjoying it. First off, this Pinot is a little acidic and is making my tummy hurt. On the nose, it is hot, and has an aroma of wet green leaves, dirty soil, and shitake?

On the tongue, no fruit, with hints of wet cigar and cedar, more than firm tannins, and an unpleasant finish. It is a pity because I really love their Willamette Valley bottling and could drink it all day.

2006 Westry Oracle Vineyard Pinot Noir

So tonight we have a very special event. Jim, Jamie and myself are all together working very hard to taste wines for BONDA.

While Jamie and Jim work on grilling BBQ chicken, I am making a risotto of Bartlett Farms cherry tomatoes, and arugula. First up, this Dundee Hills Pinot from Westry.

Dirty socks on the nose at first, opening to a field after a rain filled with red berries. Leather, cedar and a touch of spice finish out the profile. On the tongue, a bit tannic and acidic. Firm earth, good structure. A little young though.

Jamie thinks we should go back to it after awhile.

2003 Panther Creek Shea Vineyard

I opened a bottle of this Oregon Pinot on New Year's Eve for the Big Battle of Pinot from around the world. Everyone gave it a favorable review. Tonight my wife was drinking a glass of white (Ramey Sonoma Coast Chardonay) so I decided to look for a red to go with our curry, and found this bottle.

Off the bat, really tight, tannic and showing little fruit. I let it rest for awhile and came back to bright cherry (I hate that descrip), with some wild dark red berries, and notes of spice. The tannins dance in and out. Harsh one sip, mellow the next. The Tikka Chicken Curry was a little spicy, with an Algerian Cous Cous of sauteed yellow squash, garlic, asparagus and peas. Possibly not the best pairing, but it worked OK.

I let the wine sit for a little longer. Candied blackberries, leather, developed, following on the tongue - totally fruitier wine with the firm tannins supporting. Definitely can go in the bottle for another 5 years, and in the glass a few hours.

Checking back in, still the big fruit, but not goby and gooey like a Napa Cab. Little oak (probably the least of all the Panther Creeks) developing a vegetal /forrest floor quality - not Bordeaux like - but totally groovy, laid back Oregon style Pinot wet newspaperish. Still has the cherry edge, and stabilizing tannins.

I look forward to trying the '04s and '05s I have.

2005 Ken Wright Pinot Blanc

I've been sitting on the last bottle of this Oregon Pinot Blanc for awhile, thinking it would fatten up and enrich. It has, however, turned very interestingly different than I imagined. Overwhelming taste of alcoholic dry cold sake, with big flavors of cucumber, honeydew melon with a crisp pineapple-y finish.

The nose hints of something richer with notes of butterscotch and hyacinth that the palate just does not deliver. I liked it much better as a really young wine with potential than a 3 year old that tastes like a sake. It could keep changing. I honestly think I hid a bottle somewhere that I look forward to finding some day.

2003 Domaine Serene Chardonnay Cote Sud Vineyard

This Oregon Chard is one of our favorites that I have been saving for a couple of years. Not for anything in particular, but we burned through about 10 bottles in two years, and I wanted to see how it would age, considering it is oft compared to a Grand Cru Burgundy.

Court recognized the bottle when I pulled it out and got excited. I cracked the top, poured a little sip and was disappointed. Either it was a cooked bottle or the wine was past its prime. I'm hanging onto the hope that it was just an off bottle. I down played my disappointment, but Court recognized right away it wasn't what she expected and almost spit it out.

Cry cry, wah wah. I think we drank half of it anyway before opening something else.

2006 Brick House Les Dijonnais Pinot Noir

From the Ribbon Ridge appelation, this blend of mayonnaise and dijon is superb. Ha, ha - this 100% Estate Grown, Demeter certified biodynamic, organic wine rocks! We bought a case of Dijionnais and Tonnelier blind, but have been enjoying them for the last few years as the fountainhead gets a small allotment.

The ladies went to see Sex and The City, so Jamie came over while I watched the boys. It is so GD hot out (90ish), that we chilled the Pinot a bit to refresh our palate. The nose is a little hot and spicy, with cedar chest, sweet pine, brandied cherry and kirsch.

On the palate, big Oregon Pinot Noir flavors (although the nose is more alluring and complex). Touches of cherry cola, brambleberry, light tannins and a strong finish. Now that the bottle is empty - I want more!

This is sweaty Jamie and New Baby Graydon! I do not think Courtenay would approve!

05.08.08 /2004 Walnut City WineWorks Reserve Pinot Noir

My father really likes this wine, and brought four bottles to my house last summer when he came to visit to see Cooper and the fam. At the time, I did not really like this wine. Again, there are so many great Oregon Pinots at $25 that I do not need to waste my time drinking this one.

We had some folks over for dinner last Friday and I needed a decent wine to braise some short ribs to make short rib and beef burgers. I saw the Walnut Creek and thought it doesn't suck. I took a swig off the bottle and it was decent. A lot more balance and structure than the last time I drank it.

I used most of the bottle for the braise, but took a few more pulls from the bottle. Note: a very classy way to drink wine if you do not want to dirty a glass. I remember when I was in Prague in the summer 1996, we bought some bread, cheese, a cheap bottle of burgundy, pushed the cork in and drank it on the bridge, straight from the bottle. Or in Napa the summer of '95 on the lake with a bottle of Don Quixote, taking pulls. But I digress.

This wine is better than I originally thought, but I still wouldn't buy it, but I would drink it if I liked the person who was serving it to me. That is the rating!

04.12.08/ Sam's Wine Tasting 2004 Broadley Pinot Noir

Kelly was away in New York for a dinner with her Bon Apetit buddies, and left Sam to babysit the kids. He invited Jamie and I over after dinner to try a few wines. The first we cracked was a Broadley Shea Pinot Noir from 2004 (I think). I should have taken better notes, but asked Jamie to be the note taker as I was a little beat. And now I am suffering, as I am trying to decipher the notes.

I remember liking this wine more that I thought I would. It kept bugging me that I couldn't remember the connection, then I did a few days later - Mike is a big fan of the wine when he is out of their imported Oregon Pinots.

"Pinot Like No Pinot" is the heading. Slightly orange at the rim for such a young wine. Rusty, faints whiffs of raspberry but not sweet with floral notes of rose petals. Cedar and ash on the tongue with mild tannins. There was a debate about pencil lead vs. soil. I think we left it undecided.

In Sam's handwriting: smells like a used condom with minimum viscosity a slight dash of KY. I don't know if this refered to the Broadley, or one of the other 4 wines we tasted.

I'll post more on the rest.

03.23.08 /Soter Pinot Noir Beacon Hill 2005

We have been holding on to this wine for BONDA for a year or so, waiting to try it. I would hope that producers release their wine when it is meant to be drunk, but this Pinot was nowhere near being ready for the list.

Surprisingly tannic, and extremely juvenile. Nose of brackish swamp and charcoal, following on the tongue with a backbone of sweet fruit.

After a time, it developed darker fruit, but not very approachable. Very austere Oregon Pinot - like the J. Christopher Charlie's Vineyard. You could say burgundian, with a little acid and a high alcohol notes.

This will wait in the cellar for awhile longer.

03.19.08 /2005 J. Christopher Sandra Adele Vineyard

I kind of knew that Jamie was going to come over once I told him Bill was joining me while our wives were in their book club. He made it for a taste of the Skewis (he has two bottles left), and brought an Oregon Pinot that we are going to put on the list at BONDA.

J. Christopher is one of my favorite producers of Pacific Northwest juice, both whites and reds. I usually feel the Pinots need some time in the bottle, but Mike told Jamie that is was ready to drink, so we did.

On the nose, burnt oak and wet cardboard - classic J. Christopher. On the tongue following with bran, raisin, light tannins supporting dark berries with a bit of a floral undertone. Not fruity at all, with a bunch of funk on the nose and hints of white pepper.

Bill called it "derelict" while Jamie preferred "a pretty chick in a Laura Ashley dress and a black leather jacket". Whatever that means, the wine is awesome and is going on the list next week.

2006 Cristom Pinot Noir Mt. Jefferson Cuvee

This was unecessary to try so young, but I would love to put it on the list at BONDA. At first, it was cold and fruity - totally approachable. Brachish on the nose, with brambleberry and whafts of alcohol. Mild tannins and good acid. We are going to wait another couple of months, but it is almost ready to drink!

2006 Belle Pente Pinot Noir Dundee Hills

At the Mackin Tasting at BONDA, we had this Belle Pente as the 10th or so vino. Rob said it wasn't showing that well due to shock and time in bottle. I ordered a case anyway as he practically sold out of it before it came into the state.

Off the cork, it was like strawberry wine - super light and fruity. Then it went through a skanky dark period of muck. I made a skirt steak and veggie stir fry (marinated in soy sauce, ginger, honey, balsamic, onions, and chinese 5 spice). The steak made the wine sing, bringing out medium tannins, bright fruit and that Oregon depth I love. It still has a bit of funk, which is odd for Belle Pente. Usually their wines are floral and reserved.

After two hours, it was still kicking, with a little RS build up. I think it is a little too young, but I was anxious to try it again.

When I first tried Brian's (I think that is his name) wines, we had a tasting at BONDA with he and Joe Davis from Arcadian. I said "How can you do this? Joe's wines blow Belle Pente out of the water!" Rob said that others said the same thing in reverse! Over the four years since then, I have grown to love Belle Pente. The wines need more time in the bottle, and are a bit young when released, but give them a year and they will reward you plenty. The '04 Murto Vineyard is prime right now, and we plowed through about a case of 2005 Belle Pente Vineyard Chardonnay at my house last year.

I believe this is the first production of the "Dundee Hills" designate for BP. The AVA is only two or three years old in the Willamette Valley - I think the wine was just Willamette before. J. Christopher, Cameron, and I think Patty Green all have wines with the same title, so it is a good boat to be in. I don't remember the price, but I believe it will go on the list for $45 or so. A fair price in my book, although I am going to hold off for a little while to put it on the list at BONDA.

2003 Battle Burgundy v. Oregon: '03 Dom. Jean Grivot Nuites-St.-Georges 1er Cru "Les Boudots" v. '03 Panther Creek Shea Vineyard

Suprising upset by the Panther Creek. Again, I got a bunky bottle of the Grivot. It wasn't corked, it wasn't cooked, it just wasn't good. I keep reminding myself how great the '02 was, and keep bumming myself out the the '98 and '03 was just horrible. We left about the 1/2 the bottle. I recommended people try it just to see, and some were polite and others just made a face - I think someone spit it out! One guest commented: "Tasted like high priced mud from the bottom of my well". Needless to say, it was in last place at the end of the night.

Ken Wright founded Panther Creek and after he left in the late 90s, they went through a bit of a rough patch. We have carried their wines for three years and I am always mostly pleased by them. The '03 Shea took the top standing overall, and I sometimes forget how good it is - definitely stands up to my other Oregon favorite small producers, Cameron, Patty Green, E.I.E.I.O., J. Christopher, but has a style all its own. Guest comment: "Shea Vineyard shines. Pencil lead with an edge."

12.31.07 The New Year's Pinot Showdown

We had the Kingstons, the Russells, and the Murphy's over for fondue and games for New Year's Eve and I decided we should have a Pinot Battle Royale, pitting Oregon, California, Burgundy, Chile and Alsace against each other in double vintage duels plus overall. It might not have been that fair considering price ranges were from $90 to $25, but it was good fun and great to try all these wines back to back. There were some surprises and disappointments. Here is how it shook out overall from left to right. I will post the head-to-head battles and descriptions later.

2006 Ken Wright Pinot Noir

I got an early Xmas present in the beginning of December.

2005 St. Innocent Cuvee Village

There is something awesome about opening a $20 bottle of Pinot Noir and being amazed at the quality and sheer enjoyment from drinking it. I bought six bottles of this wine and was unimpressed when I opened the first in June. OK, but nothing special. It is their introductory wine - first year I have tried it so no big deal. I love St. Innocent's single vineyard bottlings, and their 2003 White Rose Pinot Noir is highly prized in my Oregon Pinot line up.

But after six months, this wine has taken on a whole new profile. Right off the bat, a bit muddled on the nose, but on the palate! Notes of soft cloves with roasted plum and a little funky canteloup rind, bitter almonds, and hints of lavender. I regret drinking four bottles, but I'll save the last for a special night.

2003 Lemelson Jerome Reserve Pinot Noir

I have always been a fan of Pinot Noir, drinking Burgundies even before I knew the grape was Pinot. When I lived in LA, Napa and Santa Barbara Pinots were always my go to wine in the store or on a wine list, and they were cheaper than French and Italian wines. Since moving back to CT, I have had the good fortune of learning about Oregon Pinots from my friends at the Fountainhead. Small producers like Cameron, Thomas, E.I.E.I.O., J. Christopher, and Patty Green who bring to their wines a sense of teroir and passion.

The first Oregon Pinot I had was from Benton Lane in 1998 or '99. It has a postage stamp on the label, and I thought, huh, an Oregon Pinot. It was probably 18 bucks or so (a moderate wine for me then) and I gave it a shot. Not as fruity as the Cali Pinots I was used to, but it packed flavor and depth. This was my new house wine. Now I probably would not drink a wine from Benton Lane since they are somewhat mass produced.

I fell in love with the 2000 or 2001 Lemelson Jerome Reserve (Willamette Valley) which Mike from the Fountainhead told me to buy. A husband and wife team - they own their vineyards and winery (I think) and buy some grapes here and there. I am not sure if he is the winemaker as well, but whatever the case, they care about the harmony between the soil, the sun, and the grapes as well as the finished product in the bottle. Sadly, they are no longer distributed in CT.

We drank five bottles of the '01 and put one away. The '02 vintage was superb as well, again drank 5 and put one away. The '03 was not as good - I have been drinking a bottle every seven months or so since I got it to see how it develops. Now I have one away and am on the last bottle I can drink. Every once and awhile with this system, I regret ever opening a bottle. And such it is with this wine.

This round of the Lemelson is of course the best. Black currant, bbq smoke, flowery high notes dried herbs all abound on the nose. Mellow in the mouth, with mild tannins, supporting muted fruit - dried cherry, almost candied wild raspberry at times. With 13.9% alcohol, you would think it would be hotter than it is but the bc (booze content) is very relaxed in taste, with a fit structure that supports the light fruit. Another wine you can get in trouble with and drink all night. Because of the limited quantity (only a 6 pack) and the cost ($32 wholesale) I never put it on the list because I am selfish and wanted it all for myself!

I have always thought a freshly shot game bird, quail comes to mind, is the perfect pairing with Pinot, but since my wife is a pasta chickaterian, I roasted a freshly plucked Balducci's chicken with salt roasted potatoes and brussells sprouts. Close to perfection on a lazy Saturday night.

2006 Cameron Giuliano

Cameron calls this wine Oregon White Table Wine. That is it. It is named after his son and is the third vintage that I have tried. Each one has its own field blend of grapes and is unique and delish in its own right. I do not know what the 06 has in it, but surely some Pinot Gris, Riesling, perhaps Chardonnay? It is sure great whatever he has thrown in there.

It is made in the same playful spirit as his Cameroni (an Italian blend), his Pinko Rosso which has a picture of Che on it, and his Screaming Ego which has a pic of Icarus on the label and is only sold in magnums in a handful of Portland restaurants. He only collects when they sell a bottle. John Paul (Cameron) reaps what the earth gives him with all organic vineyards and non-iragated vines. I have always loved his Pinots and single vineyard Chardonnays that are truly Oregonian.

For the '06 Giuliano, the nose gives a bit of honey, white pepper, and mellow white flowers (not sweet). On the tongue, crispy minerals with bass notes of pine sap. I can find no fault with this wine, I really, really like it, but I am not over the moon swooning over it.

To compliment the wine, I made an asian inspired broth of ginger, garlic and shallot to which I added sauteed cod and noodles. Something you would have at an asian bar with a nice Riesling. A peasant dish for a table wine!

I don't remember the cost of the wine, another fountainhead import, but I'm sure it was between $18 and $24 on the shelf. A great Oregon blend, 4 of 5 glasses.