Monday, December 31, 2007

2006 Ken Wright Pinot Noir

I got an early Xmas present in the beginning of December.

Sunday, December 30, 2007

12.24.07 1998 Dom. Jean Grivot Nuites-St.-Georges 1er Cru "Les Boudots"



As promised, I hunted down some bottles of this Burg - two 1998s and a 2003. The first 98 I opened was completely cooked - I mean ick, digusting. The second had a possibility of being OK, a little like sherry, but it could have burned off. I waited an hour, tasted it, still pretty bad. I had a cold, so I had Jim try it when he arrived. He soured his face and said "That's awful". Thus, I was pretty bummed.

We are opening the 2003 for New Year's with Sam and Kelly, so hopefully it will impress.

12.24.07 2006 Kingston Vineyards Cariblanco Sauvignon Blanc


Full disclosure: This wine is produced by my friend's (Sam Kingston) family. I bought a case for the restaurant a few months ago, but have not tried the wine until now. We also carry their Pinot Noir, Tobiano, which is killer for $32 on our list.

Jim and I had their Cariblanco as a cocktail white on Xmas Eve. There was a time when I did not like Sauvignon Blanc. It was like Chardonnay, and Pinot Grigio - just too common place. I loved Sancerre and white Burgs in my teens, but sometimes naming the grape just turns me off. Since the opening of BONDA, we have a had a Sav Blanc by the glass from Casa Julia - it really changed my mind on the grape - big citrus with a little cat pee on the nose and just so smooth.

I have to say the Cariblanco is gorgeous. Super clean yet somewhat rich for a Chilean Sav Blanc. On the palate, refreshing citrus is the first burst - mostly grapefruit with hints of lime zest and tangerine. Secondary notes of grassy caramel with a long finish. No peepee di gato whatsoever. Really easy to drink a lot of.

Court gave it the "Ummmm, this is good," review and wished she wasn't pregnant. I would order more, but CT is totally sold out. There is always the next vintage!

12.21.07 2003 Ch. Rollan de By Cru Bourgeois


I love that the winemaker tells you that this is a wine for the bourgeois. From Medoc, a mostly Merlot blend with 20% Cab Sauvignon and Cab Franc, and a bit of Petit Verdot. Starts off soft and fruity with black and blue berries supported by stiff tannins. A somewhat serious Bordeaux for $50 on the BONDA list. Notes of allspice, leather, dark chocolate and roasted coffee beans. I remember Jamie did not like this wine when we first tasted it - but it had been in his glass for a good hour or so.

It starts off with a bang, but does loose after the hour and a bit mark - although most people would finish the bottle before then anyway, so does it really matter? Again, hopefully this is not a "bargain" wine, 'cause I like it.

12.20.07 2004 Ch. Haut Baradieu


A Bordeaux from St. Estephe (possible my favorite Bordeaux region) that I thought was pleasant and inexpensive when I bought it for the BONDA list. Super fruit forward off the bat with tight tannins and a sexy mauve color. Totally quaffable for its youth. Tell tale green pepper and thyme on the nose with dusty dark berries on the palate.

It needs a little while for the tannins to dissipate, but a $35 Bordeaux at a restaurant this good cannot be found anywhere else.

Knowing very little about Bordeaux, hopefully it is not a wine usually found in a bargain bin in the supermarket!

Wednesday, December 19, 2007

2006 Ken Wright Cellars Celilo Vineyard Chardonnay

I have only tried a handful of Ken Wright wines, but I have loved every one of them. Pinot Noir from the Carter and Canary Hill Vineyards of 2001, Pinot Blanc from 2004 - all from Oregon. This Chardonnay is from Washington State from grapes grown in shot soil on Underwood Mountain, a sleeping volcano. I do not think I have ever had a Washington State Chard - Buty makes a Semillon/Sav Blanc blend which is pretty awesome, but no Chards.

This wine is pretty great. On the tongue a little bitter, with great balance of acidity and little friut, notes of pine nuts, and something sweet - possibly a bit of fried calamari? I defrosted a fennel pomodoro sauce and cooked up some Capellini, so not the best combo for a flavor profile. A touch of burnt rubbing alcohol on the nose, with stale candy corn possibly? No oak whatsoever although the label says barrel fermented - maybe steel barrel? It is reminicent of a Patty Green Chardonnay, in that it tastes like the Northwest, but has a dash of Burgundy in there. If I knew more about the region, I could tell you from where exactly - a region where the soil is rocky with wonderful airation (SP?. Nothing like Dom. Serene's Chards which are hailed as Burgundian and I also love.

Mike (from FH) has come down hard on Ken Wright for his religious views and his belief that he has saved the Oregon wine industry. It is unfortunate, since Mike used to import them back in the day. Now, very little Ken Wright wine comes into CT and it is all white.

I probably should not be drinking it now as it just arrived in state, but I couldn't wait. See my future Ken Wright posts to see why. I got a case of the Chard for the restaurant blind, and I am not disappointed. This wine will be great in the spring of 2008. The Pinot Blanc took about 8 months to come around as well, and it was super tasty!

Saturday, December 15, 2007

2002 Dom. Jean Grivot Nuites-St.-Georges 1er Cru "Les Boudots"


Ah yes, a long name. One of the regions I know the least about is Burgundy - not because I am lazy, but there are so many sub domaines, so many producers and so many different vineyard sites to learn for wines that I think are generally over priced and am not going to buy for BONDA, my cellar or at a restaurant unless someone tells me what to get and it is reasonable. I am usually disappointed when I order them out or buy them at a wine shop. At most wine tastings, the Burgundies I love are in the $800 to $2000 a case price, which is pushing it for me and the restaurant.

Like the last post, this wine was given to me by a friend, Sam Kingston, when we hosted he and his wife. This Pinot Noir is, I hate to say it, spectacular. Very reminicent of an Oregon Pinot made in the Burgundian fashion! It makes me want to go and find the distributor to buy more for BONDA. Jamie would be very jealous that I did not share the bottle with him!

Floral on the nose, with deep bass notes of cassis, tamed oak and grapevine/soil. The palate keeps changing, with muted fruit, medium firm tannins - not terribly dry, long balanced finish of candied carmels and charcoal.

Thursday, December 13, 2007

2003 Librandi Gravello


This wine has one of those labels that is difficult to suss out exactly what the pertinent information is exactly - very pretty though. From Val Di Neto, Italy - a region that I have never heard of, this wine is Cabernet Sauvignon and Gaglioppo (a grape I have never heard of but achtonomous to the region). It was a gift from a friend of ours who came over for a dinner party on Sunday.

Popping the cork, the wine seemed quite oaked, with a nice concentration of dark cherry, earthy notes and hints of evergreens with a deep garnet but opaque colour. In the glass for a bit, everything changed - high notes of brambleberry, and something quite delish like candied maple, or a pop tart - the oak disapated and a sweetness shone through that was unanticipated. Also developing are deep bass notes with mild tannins and a chared finish that balances the fruit. Look forward to seeing it evolve more and to experience with food.

I made a Batali bolognese to go with the vino. Kudos to Gean for finding such an interesting and delish wine to share.

2003 Miner Family The Oracle

Great Bordeaux style California central coast wine that I thought was highly allocated and a real cult wine. I bought a six pack for the restaurant, thinking that I couldn't taste it beforehand, and it was hard to get. Then Coleman walked into BONDA and said he had tried the wine four times and his rep was always trying to sell him on it. At 400 or so a six pack it is a hard sell for a wine that a lot of people have never heard of.

At first I was disappointed. A neighbor down the road shared a bottle of Miner Family Pinot Noir from Gary's Vineyard at a party this summer. It was pretty delish. She said if I could ever find The Oracle, to get it - so I did and it was a little bunk. After 45 mins or so of decanted it started to open up a bit. Heavy oak bomb, with big California fruit. 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% or so Cab Franc, some Merlot and Malbec as well as Petit Verdot. All sourced from the same vineyard site. We were happy in the end, but will put a caveat on the wine list saying it is too young.

Saturday, December 8, 2007

2002 Arcadian La Genisse Syrah Lafond Vineyard


As I wrote in my last post, I adore how Syrah tastes so different with each terroir and winemaker. Joe Davis,who makess exquisite Pinot Noir in Santa Maria CA, also tackles Syrah and Chardonnay. His style is Burgundian, and he is a cool guy. This is the first time I have had a Syrah of his and it is smashing.

From the Santa Ynez Valley - just like the Drew - but so different. Much lighter in color, and way more barnyard on the nose with notes of dried red fruit and cedar. Joe compares this wine to the Charolais cattle, the workhorse of the French countryside - an everyday table wine. One should be so lucky to drink this everyday! Super quaffable, with charred oaky notes and muted blackberry.

Friday, December 7, 2007

2003 Drew Syrah Rodney and Larner Vineyard


I love Drew's wines, almost everyone of them from Buellton, CA. We always try to feature on of their Syrah's on our list at BONDA. In 2003, only 150 cases of wine from the R & L Vineyard was made. That is only 1800 bottles. Let's say each bottle is shared by four people, that is only 7,200 people who will have the pleasure of drinking this exact wine. Sure there are smaller productions, sure there are people hoarding bottles of wine that may never get drunk, but I like to think that I am sharing in an experience that very few will experience. And I have two bottles.

This bottle is from Rob Makin's legendary porch sale, I would have bought more if he had more to sell. As I have mentioned, I love Syrah and Pinot Noir. Two grapes that really reveal terrior and the winemaker in my book. I mean look at all the tiny producers in Burgundy and the Rhone who produce wines that are so markedly different - same with California, Oregon and Washington - same grapes, totally different climates, conditions, soil, vine age, style etc..... Ah my faves.

Tonight is one of those nights where Court is out with her girlfriends and I am spending some QT with my main man Cooper. We were going to go to BONDA, but it is snowing and the roads could be troublesome. I was going to have a steak and drink the 2003 Oracle from Miner Family with Jamie. There is always tomorrow. Coop and I made a mildly spicy chili, for which I usually favor a Pinot, but I have been looking at this bottle of Drew for the last two weeks with a longing.

Rodney's and Larner Vineyard is in the Santa Ynez Valley, near where my college friend Brian Denner makes Rhone style wines - his best being Denner Syrah. R & L smells like funky Syrah, which is good, then mellows a bit. The colour is dark blueberry/blackberry. Lots of tar, acetone, mangoish rotting tropical fruit on the nose, with whafts of prune. And I mean this in a good way! On the palate, paint with notes of dark broiled fruit and hints of pine, candied baby powder and tight tannins with a real depth - classic Syrah. I love it!

2005 St. Innocent Cuvee Village


There is something awesome about opening a $20 bottle of Pinot Noir and being amazed at the quality and sheer enjoyment from drinking it. I bought six bottles of this wine and was unimpressed when I opened the first in June. OK, but nothing special. It is their introductory wine - first year I have tried it so no big deal. I love St. Innocent's single vineyard bottlings, and their 2003 White Rose Pinot Noir is highly prized in my Oregon Pinot line up.

But after six months, this wine has taken on a whole new profile. Right off the bat, a bit muddled on the nose, but on the palate! Notes of soft cloves with roasted plum and a little funky canteloup rind, bitter almonds, and hints of lavender. I regret drinking four bottles, but I'll save the last for a special night.