2006 Ken Wright Pinot Noir

I got an early Xmas present in the beginning of December.

12.24.07 1998 Dom. Jean Grivot Nuites-St.-Georges 1er Cru "Les Boudots"

As promised, I hunted down some bottles of this Burg - two 1998s and a 2003. The first 98 I opened was completely cooked - I mean ick, digusting. The second had a possibility of being OK, a little like sherry, but it could have burned off. I waited an hour, tasted it, still pretty bad. I had a cold, so I had Jim try it when he arrived. He soured his face and said "That's awful". Thus, I was pretty bummed.

We are opening the 2003 for New Year's with Sam and Kelly, so hopefully it will impress.

12.24.07 2006 Kingston Vineyards Cariblanco Sauvignon Blanc

Full disclosure: This wine is produced by my friend's (Sam Kingston) family. I bought a case for the restaurant a few months ago, but have not tried the wine until now. We also carry their Pinot Noir, Tobiano, which is killer for $32 on our list.

Jim and I had their Cariblanco as a cocktail white on Xmas Eve. There was a time when I did not like Sauvignon Blanc. It was like Chardonnay, and Pinot Grigio - just too common place. I loved Sancerre and white Burgs in my teens, but sometimes naming the grape just turns me off. Since the opening of BONDA, we have a had a Sav Blanc by the glass from Casa Julia - it really changed my mind on the grape - big citrus with a little cat pee on the nose and just so smooth.

I have to say the Cariblanco is gorgeous. Super clean yet somewhat rich for a Chilean Sav Blanc. On the palate, refreshing citrus is the first burst - mostly grapefruit with hints of lime zest and tangerine. Secondary notes of grassy caramel with a long finish. No peepee di gato whatsoever. Really easy to drink a lot of.

Court gave it the "Ummmm, this is good," review and wished she wasn't pregnant. I would order more, but CT is totally sold out. There is always the next vintage!

12.21.07 2003 Ch. Rollan de By Cru Bourgeois

I love that the winemaker tells you that this is a wine for the bourgeois. From Medoc, a mostly Merlot blend with 20% Cab Sauvignon and Cab Franc, and a bit of Petit Verdot. Starts off soft and fruity with black and blue berries supported by stiff tannins. A somewhat serious Bordeaux for $50 on the BONDA list. Notes of allspice, leather, dark chocolate and roasted coffee beans. I remember Jamie did not like this wine when we first tasted it - but it had been in his glass for a good hour or so.

It starts off with a bang, but does loose after the hour and a bit mark - although most people would finish the bottle before then anyway, so does it really matter? Again, hopefully this is not a "bargain" wine, 'cause I like it.

12.20.07 2004 Ch. Haut Baradieu

A Bordeaux from St. Estephe (possible my favorite Bordeaux region) that I thought was pleasant and inexpensive when I bought it for the BONDA list. Super fruit forward off the bat with tight tannins and a sexy mauve color. Totally quaffable for its youth. Tell tale green pepper and thyme on the nose with dusty dark berries on the palate.

It needs a little while for the tannins to dissipate, but a $35 Bordeaux at a restaurant this good cannot be found anywhere else.

Knowing very little about Bordeaux, hopefully it is not a wine usually found in a bargain bin in the supermarket!

2006 Ken Wright Cellars Celilo Vineyard Chardonnay

I have only tried a handful of Ken Wright wines, but I have loved every one of them. Pinot Noir from the Carter and Canary Hill Vineyards of 2001, Pinot Blanc from 2004 - all from Oregon. This Chardonnay is from Washington State from grapes grown in shot soil on Underwood Mountain, a sleeping volcano. I do not think I have ever had a Washington State Chard - Buty makes a Semillon/Sav Blanc blend which is pretty awesome, but no Chards.

This wine is pretty great. On the tongue a little bitter, with great balance of acidity and little friut, notes of pine nuts, and something sweet - possibly a bit of fried calamari? I defrosted a fennel pomodoro sauce and cooked up some Capellini, so not the best combo for a flavor profile. A touch of burnt rubbing alcohol on the nose, with stale candy corn possibly? No oak whatsoever although the label says barrel fermented - maybe steel barrel? It is reminicent of a Patty Green Chardonnay, in that it tastes like the Northwest, but has a dash of Burgundy in there. If I knew more about the region, I could tell you from where exactly - a region where the soil is rocky with wonderful airation (SP?. Nothing like Dom. Serene's Chards which are hailed as Burgundian and I also love.

Mike (from FH) has come down hard on Ken Wright for his religious views and his belief that he has saved the Oregon wine industry. It is unfortunate, since Mike used to import them back in the day. Now, very little Ken Wright wine comes into CT and it is all white.

I probably should not be drinking it now as it just arrived in state, but I couldn't wait. See my future Ken Wright posts to see why. I got a case of the Chard for the restaurant blind, and I am not disappointed. This wine will be great in the spring of 2008. The Pinot Blanc took about 8 months to come around as well, and it was super tasty!

2002 Dom. Jean Grivot Nuites-St.-Georges 1er Cru "Les Boudots"

Ah yes, a long name. One of the regions I know the least about is Burgundy - not because I am lazy, but there are so many sub domaines, so many producers and so many different vineyard sites to learn for wines that I think are generally over priced and am not going to buy for BONDA, my cellar or at a restaurant unless someone tells me what to get and it is reasonable. I am usually disappointed when I order them out or buy them at a wine shop. At most wine tastings, the Burgundies I love are in the $800 to $2000 a case price, which is pushing it for me and the restaurant.

Like the last post, this wine was given to me by a friend, Sam Kingston, when we hosted he and his wife. This Pinot Noir is, I hate to say it, spectacular. Very reminicent of an Oregon Pinot made in the Burgundian fashion! It makes me want to go and find the distributor to buy more for BONDA. Jamie would be very jealous that I did not share the bottle with him!

Floral on the nose, with deep bass notes of cassis, tamed oak and grapevine/soil. The palate keeps changing, with muted fruit, medium firm tannins - not terribly dry, long balanced finish of candied carmels and charcoal.

2003 Librandi Gravello

This wine has one of those labels that is difficult to suss out exactly what the pertinent information is exactly - very pretty though. From Val Di Neto, Italy - a region that I have never heard of, this wine is Cabernet Sauvignon and Gaglioppo (a grape I have never heard of but achtonomous to the region). It was a gift from a friend of ours who came over for a dinner party on Sunday.

Popping the cork, the wine seemed quite oaked, with a nice concentration of dark cherry, earthy notes and hints of evergreens with a deep garnet but opaque colour. In the glass for a bit, everything changed - high notes of brambleberry, and something quite delish like candied maple, or a pop tart - the oak disapated and a sweetness shone through that was unanticipated. Also developing are deep bass notes with mild tannins and a chared finish that balances the fruit. Look forward to seeing it evolve more and to experience with food.

I made a Batali bolognese to go with the vino. Kudos to Gean for finding such an interesting and delish wine to share.

2003 Miner Family The Oracle

Great Bordeaux style California central coast wine that I thought was highly allocated and a real cult wine. I bought a six pack for the restaurant, thinking that I couldn't taste it beforehand, and it was hard to get. Then Coleman walked into BONDA and said he had tried the wine four times and his rep was always trying to sell him on it. At 400 or so a six pack it is a hard sell for a wine that a lot of people have never heard of.

At first I was disappointed. A neighbor down the road shared a bottle of Miner Family Pinot Noir from Gary's Vineyard at a party this summer. It was pretty delish. She said if I could ever find The Oracle, to get it - so I did and it was a little bunk. After 45 mins or so of decanted it started to open up a bit. Heavy oak bomb, with big California fruit. 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% or so Cab Franc, some Merlot and Malbec as well as Petit Verdot. All sourced from the same vineyard site. We were happy in the end, but will put a caveat on the wine list saying it is too young.

2002 Arcadian La Genisse Syrah Lafond Vineyard

As I wrote in my last post, I adore how Syrah tastes so different with each terroir and winemaker. Joe Davis,who makess exquisite Pinot Noir in Santa Maria CA, also tackles Syrah and Chardonnay. His style is Burgundian, and he is a cool guy. This is the first time I have had a Syrah of his and it is smashing.

From the Santa Ynez Valley - just like the Drew - but so different. Much lighter in color, and way more barnyard on the nose with notes of dried red fruit and cedar. Joe compares this wine to the Charolais cattle, the workhorse of the French countryside - an everyday table wine. One should be so lucky to drink this everyday! Super quaffable, with charred oaky notes and muted blackberry.

2003 Drew Syrah Rodney and Larner Vineyard

I love Drew's wines, almost everyone of them from Buellton, CA. We always try to feature on of their Syrah's on our list at BONDA. In 2003, only 150 cases of wine from the R & L Vineyard was made. That is only 1800 bottles. Let's say each bottle is shared by four people, that is only 7,200 people who will have the pleasure of drinking this exact wine. Sure there are smaller productions, sure there are people hoarding bottles of wine that may never get drunk, but I like to think that I am sharing in an experience that very few will experience. And I have two bottles.

This bottle is from Rob Makin's legendary porch sale, I would have bought more if he had more to sell. As I have mentioned, I love Syrah and Pinot Noir. Two grapes that really reveal terrior and the winemaker in my book. I mean look at all the tiny producers in Burgundy and the Rhone who produce wines that are so markedly different - same with California, Oregon and Washington - same grapes, totally different climates, conditions, soil, vine age, style etc..... Ah my faves.

Tonight is one of those nights where Court is out with her girlfriends and I am spending some QT with my main man Cooper. We were going to go to BONDA, but it is snowing and the roads could be troublesome. I was going to have a steak and drink the 2003 Oracle from Miner Family with Jamie. There is always tomorrow. Coop and I made a mildly spicy chili, for which I usually favor a Pinot, but I have been looking at this bottle of Drew for the last two weeks with a longing.

Rodney's and Larner Vineyard is in the Santa Ynez Valley, near where my college friend Brian Denner makes Rhone style wines - his best being Denner Syrah. R & L smells like funky Syrah, which is good, then mellows a bit. The colour is dark blueberry/blackberry. Lots of tar, acetone, mangoish rotting tropical fruit on the nose, with whafts of prune. And I mean this in a good way! On the palate, paint with notes of dark broiled fruit and hints of pine, candied baby powder and tight tannins with a real depth - classic Syrah. I love it!

2005 St. Innocent Cuvee Village

There is something awesome about opening a $20 bottle of Pinot Noir and being amazed at the quality and sheer enjoyment from drinking it. I bought six bottles of this wine and was unimpressed when I opened the first in June. OK, but nothing special. It is their introductory wine - first year I have tried it so no big deal. I love St. Innocent's single vineyard bottlings, and their 2003 White Rose Pinot Noir is highly prized in my Oregon Pinot line up.

But after six months, this wine has taken on a whole new profile. Right off the bat, a bit muddled on the nose, but on the palate! Notes of soft cloves with roasted plum and a little funky canteloup rind, bitter almonds, and hints of lavender. I regret drinking four bottles, but I'll save the last for a special night.

2002 Radio-Coteau Las Colinas

11.23.07 Dinner at American Seasons In Nantucket

I have been searching for my notes to no avail. All the wines we had were great. Will continue looking and will fill in notes when I can. Let's just say it was after Thanksgiving with some good friends and I was on cold medication.

2002 Antonelli Sagrantino di Montefalco

So I ended up going to Paci tonight as Jamie did not need me at the restaurant and Courtenay forbade me from making anything in the kitchen - she is already in Nantucket for the week. I ran into the DiNardo brothers, Peter and Lenny. I went to college with Peter, but didn't really get to know him until the last few years in Fairfield - we all favor the same restaurants and wine stores!

Point being, they hosted me on a bottle they were drinking and I returned the favor with the Antonelli, which Nino, the som/host/manager suggested, and which I drank the last time I was there - see previous post. Anyway, I do not think they liked it as much as they only had a glass each, but who knows how much they had to drink before I got there!

Opening up, this Sagrantino is super dry (as they all are) but much more floral and fruity than the Beas I am used to, plus only $67 on the list. Nose almost of sherry or port with hints of alcohol, dried prunes, allspice and something else, served a bit to cold as well. Dense blackberry, dark chocolate, a little medicinal on the tongue. Definitely not tasting as well as the last time I had it - but it could be me. Tannins are surprisingly mellow for the grape - again the last time I had it was superb - I'm sure I will have it again, and will anote the post when that happens!

2002 Ruston Cuvee Simone

Yes, that is a half bottle. From Rob Mackin's porch sale, I was able to secure many an interesting bottle of vino with some nice age as well. This blend from Ruston is 50% Merlot, 25% Cab Franc, 16% Syrah, 9% Cab Sauvignon. An interesting blend that I thought I would like more.

To start off, it is way too cold. The case was on Rob's porch for a few days (not below 40 in CT) and in my living room for two days (not below 50) but still doesn't allow for proper tasting. The nose is a little muddled, the flavor is a little too rasiny with notes of Robitussin possibly? Also I am at the onset of a runny nose so maybe it is not the best time to taste and review wine? I will come back to it again - as I have a case to drink!

I did not review the 2004 Ruston Cab Sav we had last month because it was way far away from drinking properly. It was so tannic, that after it was decanted for and hour it still would skin your knee.

My Wine Cellars /Storage Places

I/m sure everyone is wondering, where do I keep all of my wine! Here are the pics for my many hiding spots. One of my chores this summer was turning my man zone into a wine cellar and tasting room, but that never happened. SEE below. Eventhough this pic is on it's side, you can tell it is a closet for wine. It is in my garage that is temp controlled at about 54 degrees. This is the first stop in storage for wines that are ready to be drunk. Right now I have about 150 wines in there that are the right age and can be consumed at any time. I jusr redid it yesterday to add 36 more wines I got a Rob Mackin's porch sale. I reorganized all whites, European wines, Pinot Noir and American blends.



This is my Indonesian wine chest in my living room that I have had since 1998. It is separate from the main part of our house, so I leave the heat on 50. It is usually pretty chilly unless we have guests over. It holds 30 or so wines and booze. These are showcase wines that can be drunk - ie. Sean Thackrey flight, my 3 Bordeauxs, inexpensive Rhones, etc...



This was the first part of my cellar buildout. I got the cheapest racking system and you get what you pay for. Even with the 15 wines here, it is a little flimsy. These are wines that can be drunk, but I probably should not because they are so good. The Lemelson came from this storage area. Also a couple of Quintarellis, my Denner Syrah, White Rose Pinot, etc... The temp is again low, but I will have to move these wines this winter as it tends to get around 65 or so because of the boiler in the unfinished part about 25 feet away.



This is the cave in my basement. It is the original 1710 oven and reaches back 6 or so feet. This was the original wine storage area until my collection grew. It holds about 130 wines that cannot be drunk anytime soon. I store all the wines I want to age here, and it sometimes get raided, but most of the wines you cannot drink b/c they are too young! The temp is always 55 or so and the wines always come out at the perfect temp!

2003 Lemelson Jerome Reserve Pinot Noir

I have always been a fan of Pinot Noir, drinking Burgundies even before I knew the grape was Pinot. When I lived in LA, Napa and Santa Barbara Pinots were always my go to wine in the store or on a wine list, and they were cheaper than French and Italian wines. Since moving back to CT, I have had the good fortune of learning about Oregon Pinots from my friends at the Fountainhead. Small producers like Cameron, Thomas, E.I.E.I.O., J. Christopher, and Patty Green who bring to their wines a sense of teroir and passion.

The first Oregon Pinot I had was from Benton Lane in 1998 or '99. It has a postage stamp on the label, and I thought, huh, an Oregon Pinot. It was probably 18 bucks or so (a moderate wine for me then) and I gave it a shot. Not as fruity as the Cali Pinots I was used to, but it packed flavor and depth. This was my new house wine. Now I probably would not drink a wine from Benton Lane since they are somewhat mass produced.

I fell in love with the 2000 or 2001 Lemelson Jerome Reserve (Willamette Valley) which Mike from the Fountainhead told me to buy. A husband and wife team - they own their vineyards and winery (I think) and buy some grapes here and there. I am not sure if he is the winemaker as well, but whatever the case, they care about the harmony between the soil, the sun, and the grapes as well as the finished product in the bottle. Sadly, they are no longer distributed in CT.

We drank five bottles of the '01 and put one away. The '02 vintage was superb as well, again drank 5 and put one away. The '03 was not as good - I have been drinking a bottle every seven months or so since I got it to see how it develops. Now I have one away and am on the last bottle I can drink. Every once and awhile with this system, I regret ever opening a bottle. And such it is with this wine.

This round of the Lemelson is of course the best. Black currant, bbq smoke, flowery high notes dried herbs all abound on the nose. Mellow in the mouth, with mild tannins, supporting muted fruit - dried cherry, almost candied wild raspberry at times. With 13.9% alcohol, you would think it would be hotter than it is but the bc (booze content) is very relaxed in taste, with a fit structure that supports the light fruit. Another wine you can get in trouble with and drink all night. Because of the limited quantity (only a 6 pack) and the cost ($32 wholesale) I never put it on the list because I am selfish and wanted it all for myself!

I have always thought a freshly shot game bird, quail comes to mind, is the perfect pairing with Pinot, but since my wife is a pasta chickaterian, I roasted a freshly plucked Balducci's chicken with salt roasted potatoes and brussells sprouts. Close to perfection on a lazy Saturday night.

2003 Ferro Carlo Barbera D'Asti "Roche"

I am not a big fan of Barbera or Barbaresco in general - I just never have had that many that I love at the right price - so I was really jazzed when when I tried the Roche in the 2000 bottling. It was fantastic so I put it on the list.

The problem with our wine list is that we love Italian wines, but they really do not go with our food. SEE sample menu and last year's wine list: BONDA

So I took this Roche off the list when we sold out of our stock (last weekend) but now I kind of regret it. Just off the nose, I love this wine. Seductive cherry, currant, bay, hints of cola, following on a mellow mouthfeel with medium tannins enough to balance the dark berry fruit with an airplane glue finish - I mean that in a good way, almost like a Pepe. Not dry, not wet - just right. It is definately a red teeth wine and needs big food.

For Court I made spinach and ricotta ravioli, for myself meatballs in the same basic tomato sauce with some bread. Another peasant meal for an enlightened Italian. On the list I think it is in the high 50s.

2006 Cameron Giuliano

Cameron calls this wine Oregon White Table Wine. That is it. It is named after his son and is the third vintage that I have tried. Each one has its own field blend of grapes and is unique and delish in its own right. I do not know what the 06 has in it, but surely some Pinot Gris, Riesling, perhaps Chardonnay? It is sure great whatever he has thrown in there.

It is made in the same playful spirit as his Cameroni (an Italian blend), his Pinko Rosso which has a picture of Che on it, and his Screaming Ego which has a pic of Icarus on the label and is only sold in magnums in a handful of Portland restaurants. He only collects when they sell a bottle. John Paul (Cameron) reaps what the earth gives him with all organic vineyards and non-iragated vines. I have always loved his Pinots and single vineyard Chardonnays that are truly Oregonian.

For the '06 Giuliano, the nose gives a bit of honey, white pepper, and mellow white flowers (not sweet). On the tongue, crispy minerals with bass notes of pine sap. I can find no fault with this wine, I really, really like it, but I am not over the moon swooning over it.

To compliment the wine, I made an asian inspired broth of ginger, garlic and shallot to which I added sauteed cod and noodles. Something you would have at an asian bar with a nice Riesling. A peasant dish for a table wine!

I don't remember the cost of the wine, another fountainhead import, but I'm sure it was between $18 and $24 on the shelf. A great Oregon blend, 4 of 5 glasses.

2005 Dom. du Pavillon-Mercurol Crozes Hermitage

Another wine I picked up from the fountainhead a few weeks ago. I am trying to build my under $25, drinkable wine cellar, instead of my $50 should not be drinking for two to ten years wine cellar. My in-laws are snowbirding it to Florida for a few days, so my wife wanted to have them over for a meal. I made a stewy, gumbo type meal with many beans, rice and sausage. It turned out quite delish. I thought the Crozes would be a good pairing.

As soon as I opened this syrah blend, I knew that my father-in-law, Jim, would like this wine. Smokey pencil lead on the nose, with whaffs of charcoal and dark, dark chocolate without any sweetness at all. On the tongue, almost bitter, with savory notes of black pepper, bay leaf, bitter earth - almost scorched - and whole juniper berries. Medium tannins, with no fruit, not super rich and heavy, but not a lightweight either. Having said this, it is a fantastic wine, but could have used another year or two to balance out. As I thought, it did go nicely with the gumbo.

2004 McCrea Roussanne

I loved the 2002 vintage of this wine but it was way too expensive for the restaurant, as no one would order a $54 Roussanne from Washington State. Our distributor offered us a deal, so I bought a case of the 2004. Cuttings from the Tablas Creek Beaucastel vines - another great American Roussanne - this white is one of the nine white Rhone grapes, usually blended with Marsanne and others, but shines with this single varietal bottling.

With a nose of peach blossoms and sweet pea, hinting cumin with notes of nutmeg and white pepper - very complex with sweet and savory essense. On the tongue, not super rich, but not flabby either - dried apricot, notes of lychee but not too sweet or cloying. Candied grapes, maybe muscat, and a bass note of something....

Courtenay tasted it and wished she could drink more, so I know it is a great wine!

2001 Arcadian Lafond Vineyard Pinot Noir

Since my father was not around in Bridgehampton this trip, I decided to open one of his wines to see how it is tasting. Beautiful would be the word to describe it.

2004 La Spinetta Langhe Nebiollo

In Bridgehampton for the weekend. Zilia cooked an osso bucco for dinner with some friends and figured I would supply a nice Italian to compliment the dish. I went to Morrells and found the La Spinetta.

I wasn't that impressed for the price - $83. It had good fruit and a nice balance of tannins and acid, but I would not buy it again.

2005 Cuilleron Tasting

I really wish I could find my notes from this night at the Coopers. The Syrah Rose was a bit of a disappointment, but the other Syrahs were simply devine as they usually are. Les Candives was a little tight and needs some more time in the bottle. But the others were floral with length, medium to full tannins and great fruit.

1999 Ferraton Pere et Fils Ermitage Le Meal

Jamie came over after the restaurant closed and brought a bottle of 1999 Ferraton Pere et Fils Ermitage Le Meal, which he picked up at the Fountainhead earlier this evening. The bottle had been sitting in his car, so it was cold, but opened with a spicy nose - reminiscent of church incense. Totally closed up on the tongue, but carrying over that churchy, full spiced mouth.

Decanted for a bit, we waited, and warmed the glasses - looked at the wine in the Juliska decanter which Kim had given to me earlier this year. From the Rhone Valley, we thinks the primary grape is Syrah, and it smells and tastes like a Syrah, although not as silky and elegant as the Cuillerons we had in September (see previous blogs).

Upon reading the label, the wine is biodynamic - meaning it is organic plus ten. The vines are planted and treated with the movements of the earth and tides and moon cycles and a bunch of other eco-friendly lets love our Earth Mother and have her provide us some great grapes kinda stuff. We have never had a bad wine made in this fashion, so I have to believe it works.

Bacon fat on the tongue, following with blooming dark fruit, black pepper and smokey Roman Catholic incense. Too early to tell where it is going, but we are both ready for the journey and like the start.

9.14.07/ 2003 Le Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf du Pape and 2003 Domaine Tempier Le Tourtine

Ugh, what a horrible experience tasting this wine. Colman brought the bottle and was very pumped to open it (that is him in the picture marveling at how bad it was). The Donjon is one of the classic examples of CdP but this showed very poorly. It was disgustingly sweet - almost as if it had been cooked. Mealy in the mouth and just plain awful. The nose was outstanding though.

Colman claimed that 2003 had just been an off year for Southern Rhone but even in a bad year, a good producer can make a fine wine. To prove my point, I grabbed a bottle of 2003 Dom. Tempier Le Tourtine - a single vineyard Mouvedre/Cinsault blend - and cracked it. It was fragrant and tannic. We decanted it for about 45 mins (drank a different wine) then came back and it was heavenly compared to the Donjon. Possibly too young, but it was our sample bottle, so we had to try it for the list!

Still tannic, but mellowed into dry dark fruit, notes of dried apricot, roasted plum, not juicy but delish.

4 of 5 glasses!

9.14.07/ 1999 Yves Cuilleron Saint Joseph “L’Amarybelle”

While we were waiting for the Les Serines to mellow out (see previous post) we opened the L'Amarybelle which we have had in past vintages (03 and 04). It was astounding that it could taste so different than the Les Serine while being the same grape from the same region. And it wasn't because Les Serine was an off bottle.

The L'Amarybelle was subtle, but in your face at the same time. Totally balanced with tannins and fruit. It had the smoky tar, but the sweet innocent raspberry to lighten it up. It was beautiful by itself, and nicely complimented the grilled leg of lamb I snacked on while tasting the lucious fruit.

We decanted it, and I kept stealing sips while our friends tried to figure out what to open next!

09.14.07/1999 Yves Cuilleron Saint Joseph “Les Serines”

It all goes back to trying wines in Nantucket. For Jamie and Kim's engagement, we sent them a bottle of wine at the hotel where they stayed the night they got engaged - the Waiwinnet in Nantucket. My friend Matt (who was the former Wine and Spirits Manager at Craft) looked at the list and said - get them the Cuilleron! It was a white Condrieu and they said it was one of the best wines they ever had. The next time we had an opportunity to buy Cuilleron, Matt steered us in the right direction and selected a few different regions for the reds. All 2002 and 2003 vintages, we probably drank them too young but they were delish.

Jamie found a bottle of the 1999 Les Serines (of which we have two cases of 2004) and we opened it up with some friends - see post below. It was smoky tarrific - almost to the point of not being able to drink. We let it sit for awhile and opened another bottle, but it never really came around to being delish. It was too young. At 8 years! The primary grape is syrah, but nothing elegant and silky like you would expect. It was more like a pinotage from South Africa. Needless to say we were a little worried about the 04s, but see my posts later for that tasting!

09.14.07 A Real Barn-Burner Blowout

Aways back, lets say September 14th, my friend Jay came to visit and play golf for a Friday/ Saturday stay. We went down to BONDA and Jamie had some wines he wanted to try. I informed our friend and sometimes stand-in Colman to come in adn try the wines as well. He brought a bottle as well. And then for good measure, we opened two more.

2006 J. Christopher Cuvee Lunatique

This 100% unoaked, no malo, Oregon Chardonnay from the Willamette Valley is OK in my book. It is clean and pure much like a Chablis and has a secondary layer of spice. The nose is a little moldy apple, with some guava notes. The mouthfeel is moderate and steely - would go nicely with an asian shrimp dish, but nothing too rich as it still is a chardonnay.

The guys from the Fountainhead have been importing J. Sommers line for a few years, and I have never truly been a huge fan of his whites, but I will drink them over most other American wines any day.

3 of 5 glasses

2001 Campion Pinot Noir Firebeak Vineyard

This California Pinot from the Edna Valley is a recommendation from our friend Coleman at the Wine Thief, who occationally helps us out at BONDA. On the nose it is super candied raspberry with hints of oak. On the tongue, mild tannins support ripe red berries and woodland floor. A nice Cali Pinot, a bit on the fruity side and on the high tip: $56 on the shelf. I prefer drinking the Kynsi (from the Edna Valley as well) at $38.

BUT the Campion is a single vineyard wine and a 2001 - which was an awesome year in that region. The Kynsi is a 2004 - but is drinking supreme. I could only imagine what the Campion tasted like at 3 years, or 4, as it could use some more time in the bottle to mellow out the high notes.

But I like my Pinots basey anyway. The only other 2001s I have are from Oregon, which I think was a good year as well. I will have to get to them soon!

10.25 2005 Nickel and Nickel Truchard Vineyard

I ordered this by mistake. It sounded familiar and it is the same bottle we had in Nantucket over the summer and on our last trip. It is still a very delish Chard but might be better when it is served to me in the basement of the Boarding House. I made a nice piece of cod with wild brown rice and peas. The peas were not a good match as they were too earthy for the wine, but the lemon on the cod hit the high notes and the wild rice gripped the tannins.

2005 Nickel and Nickel Searby Vineyard Chardonnay

For those of you who know, I love the 2005 N&N Truchard Vineyard. So I ordered a couple of sample bottles from our distributor. Very disappointed with the Searby Vineyard. Bottle description gives it floral aromas with flavors of Muscat and passion fruit. This is true. Also sweet oak and fruit follow through. This is truw as well. I just don't like it.

2005 Bridge Lane Lieb Rose

With the delicious discovery of the 2005 Chardonnay, I decided to open the Rose I got the same year from Lieb. I should have drunk it the year we bought it becasue it turned to strawberry juice. It wasn't undrinkable, with scents of sweet sweet berries, mangos and banana peel - but it was juice, not wine.

10.16 TNS 2005 Rhone Tasting

Looking at my last posts, all you would think I drink are Itals! There was a monthly tradition started by the Fountainhead guys and their friends about seven or eight years back called TNS - Tuesday Night Sappers. Jamie and I joined about 5 years ago and hosted at BONDA - cooking up sausages that Mark would get from Philly, broccoli rabe, peppers and onions, etc... Good grub and fantastic wines. About 10 - 15 of us, all into wine or in the industry.

Last Tuesday was the first TNS in a little over a year and we featured 2005 Chateaunuf-de-Papes and Southern Rhones. About 12 people showed, with four or five newbies as most of the old timers dropped out at the last minute. Mark organized it in Fat Cat Joe - the coffee house adjacent to the Fat Cat Pizza Pie company - since Jamie was busy and didn't want to attend, plus I did not want the responsibiliy at the restuarant by myself.

It was a fun crowd, however the wines pretty much all sucked. Unfortunately I cannot find my notes, but I will look for them to add to this post. 11 wines in total - the Vieux de Telegraph, which is always one of my favorites, was corked. Will fill you in on the rest once I find the notes. Hopefully they are not in the wash!

10.20 Two Great Italian Reds at Paci

Well, I didn't take notes and I am sorry. After the Pequot Library event on Friday, Court and I went to Paci for dinner with the Russells and their friends (another couple). I called about 1/2 hour before we got there and ordered a bottle of Binomio, however when I got there, they did not have any left.

I looked at the wine list and ordered a Sagrantino (not Bea) and a blend of Syrah, Cabernet and Sangiovese to start while the red from Montefalco opened up. Everyone at the table was impressed with my choices and I feel I did pretty well considering Paci's mark-ups (expensive) to choose two delish wines priced at $54 and $68.

Uh, I wish I wrote them down, but I can go back, look at the list and make my notes!

2004 Montevertine Pian del Ciampolo

We fell in love with this wine from the 1998 vintage when the distributor was practically giving it away. We bought many cases, but unfortunately had to play catch-up to find the wine again and missed all save the 2004 vintage.

Initially we were disappointed with the wine, but now it is drinking wonderfully - although not as good as the 1998.

This blend of Sangiovese, Canailo and Colorino from Radda in Chianti is a light wine, barely opaque, but packed with flavor. Again, a little austere in the Italian Chianti style, with hints of high note bright berries, dusty forrest floor, mild tannins, with a lingering finish of old vines. I really love this wine, unfortunately this is my last bottle.

We sell the Pian del Ciampolo at BONDA for about $48, but I would probably pay more at another restaurant. We get the 2005 vintage at the end of November, but sadly have to wait until February to taste.

09.29 1993 Fontalloro, 1998 Quintarelli Valpolicella

The 1993 Fontalloro 100% Sangiovese was brought from Kevin's cellar to open New Year's Eve 2006. We did not get around to opening it, and Jamie said that this wine would be complimented by a simple pasta, or piece of meat.

My cooking style is not traditional, as I favor the more exotic, however my wife loves italian dishes and I am constantly looking for simple yet challenging pasta and risotto dishes that fit into her limited diet.

I found a Sunday Gravy recipe in Saveur and thought I should try it out. Two days to make with three types of pork (I omitted the lamb chops as Court and Rebecca do not eat the babies). It turned out pretty good and was a good match for the Super Tuscan - which was awesome.

I countered with a 1998 Quintarelli Valpolicella which was inky, smoky, full bodied and a real winner.

10.21 2004 Cameron Dundee Hills Pinot Noir

For dinner on Saturday, I made an attempt to create a chicken and dumpling dish from this month's Savour. The recipe called for 5.5 CUPS of butter for the batter, with only 2 cups flour. I thought it must have been a typo, so substituted only 5 tbsp. It worked out OK, but the dumplings didn't fully form and just made the chicken and vegetables thicker. I compared it to a chicken pot pie without the pie!

To compliment an American Classic, I chose a 2004 Cameron Dundee Hills Pinot Noir from Oregon, that I have been saving for a little over a year. This is a wine we have caried at the restaurant for many years (as well as other Cameron wines) and the quanities have steadily declined - thus last year we only had 12 bottles allocated(one for each of us, 1 to drink together, 9 to sell). And we should have waited for this beauty.

Austere is a good description, with minimal fruit, a little char, and notes of oak and pine. Another fantastic wine that was perfect with the meal, and was great on its own.

10.21 2003 Lieb Chardonnay

I am really behind on my updates, so I will go from most recent to a month previous. On Saturday, Kevin and Rebecca came over for dinner. I was running very late, so we cracked a bottle of 2003 Lieb Vineyards Chardonnay from the North Fork of Long Island. A surprisingly very good wine.

Jamie had read about Lieb, and mentioned the winery to me. When Courtenay and I were in Bridgehampton in 2006, we went for a little wine tour of the North Fork and made a point of stopping at Lieb. At the time, I thought the wines were ok, a little flabby with little structure. BUT, when we opened this wine on Saturday, it was fantastic.

Little oak, but full bodied and crisp. Very minerally for a Chard, but it was refreshing, with notes of vanilla, cardamom and pine. I wish I had more bottles, as I only had one left, and I was saving it as a late night go to. Good thing I had it on a fresh palate!

2005 Williams Selyem Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

YES, I am being very selfish tonight. I had a great conference call and a returned NDA today, so I'm feeling pretty good. A friend of mine from college used to work at William Selyem and I always thought they made pretentious, overripe Californian Pinot oak jam - but to give them a chance I signed up for the waiting list. And waited, and waited for two years. I got on it almost three years ago and am pretty happy with their wines. Either my tastes have changed or they are making better Pinots. Granted the first two cycles I could only buy three bottles, then six, and now I think I am up to a full case of different Pinots - only a few from each vineyard site, and none from some of them.

The 2005 WS Russian River Valley Pinot Noir is their entry level with the Sonoma Coast - $45 a pop. The wine is light and boyant - with bright raspberry with a little oak. Some candied strawberry flavors, with an almost pot like whaffs of soil and burning pine straw. Overall a delish wine. I only had five bottles and now I am down to three. I put one away for the five year test and will wait to share the others. It might be too young to drink now, but I am sometimes impatient.

2003 Villa di Geggiano Chianti Classico

This is a bottle we had on the list with the 2000 vintage, as well as the 1998 Riserva. I have not tried this vintage yet, but it is on the winelist nonetheless as we had a couple of extra bottles left over from a party. I brought a bottle up to Nantucket in July to drink with Jamie over the 4th, but we never got to it. I was debating whether or not to open it tonight, but I do not feeling like buying any wine nor stealing a bottle from my father-in-law.

I went to Tutto Sfoglia and bought three cheeses: Piave (a favorite of mine and totally under rated), Toma di something (cow's milk similar in texture to havarti) and an aged Provolone (again gets no respect!).

The Sangioves is slightly musty, full raisin with a little prune - much more fruit forward at first than most Chiantis I have had with zero tannins, almost a marvel for an Italian. I wonder if it might have gotten cooked? It sat in the car for a 5 hour drive and a 3 hour boat ride, then in a 58 degree basement for three months. But so did four other bottles of red that we opened at the end of July that were unaffected.

The Piave is like a soft parmesan with a hint of black truffle - to the wine it brings out the lighter, high notes masking the over ripeness of when it was first opened. The Provolone is rich and tangy, almost chewy - not so great with the Geggiano as it turns the wine a little sour. The Toma is meatier and is the best match for the vino as it balances the rasin/prune with the high raspberry and thyme flavors.

But a good wine shouldn't need cheese to make it drinkable. The 2003 does not resemble the 2000, as that wine took about an hour to really open up and then it was still sparse, almost Spartan fruit with heavy tannins - and tes, it was an awesome wine. I need to open another '03 Geggiano Classico to make a proper judgement. On this bottle, I would give it a two of five glasses.

2005 Nickel and Nickel Truchard Vineyard Chardonnay

We are on Nantucket for the weekend. Last night we popped into The Boarding House, off and on our favorite restaurant on the island. I ordered the belly tuna tartare - yeah, not very original, but it was layered with goat cheese - and a local fluke served with local beets and a walnut aoli. Pretty tasty.

To drink, a bottle of N & N Truchard Vineyard Chard from Carneros. Nickel and Nickel being an off shoot of Far Niente - a brand that I said I would never like - but the sons are surpassing the father with their single vingeyard single varietal wines. This is the second time I tried the Truchard Chard - the first being in July at Boarding House as well. It is $75 on their wine list, I think about $24 wholesale.

It is a surprisingly lightly oaked Cali Chard, slightly grassy and bitter, with bright acidity and an oaky finish. Somewhat spicy for a chard, with starfruit & guava notes, and a super mellow finish. Not what I would drink on a hot day in the summer, but delish nonetheless.

2003 Poggio Trevalle Larcille

A Sangiovese from Morellino di Scansanso, a coastal Tuscan appelation that is superb. I have had three other Morellinos and they have all sucked ass. This wine opens with what Jamie likes to call baby diapers on the nose - plush tannic rich seaside pine trees opening into muted fruit but big bright roasted plum medium tannins that really grip your tongue and say I'm here and Italian!

We bought about five or six cases of this wine on discount for the restaurant and served it by the glass. It has been my go to Italian at home. There is the question: when you are alone, as I am often in drinking red wine since my wife only drinks champagne and white, do you go for something good or something you like or something cheap?

I have a modest cellar, 350 or so bottles, all great wine, some laid down, some to save for something special, but I find myself drinking great one off bottles by myself because I am a selfish prick. I only get a handful of William Seylem Pinots a year - do you think I am going to share my last bottle of 2003 Bucher Vineyard?

Point being, Larchille on the shelf is about $28 or so and I love to share it, but I also drink a fair amount by myself because I will save the other half of the bottle for another night, or cook with it and not feel so bad or feel that I have to finish the bottle. And it is a fantastic wine with pasta or risotto or osso bucco - you name it - I hate to sound stereotypical, but Italian wine goes with Italian food!

2003 Elena Walch Kastelaz Gewurztraminer

Ah, Gewurztraminer, one of my favorite grapes. Court is off on a girl's dinner, her third in as many weeks, leaving me as the primary caregiver for our son. In taking that responsibility, I decided to open something good. I didn't realize I opened something special until I looked at the label.

Sweet honeysuckle on the nose, following with crisp pear on the tongue. Hints of spice, with full-body on the tongue - not super viscous, but pleasant and not cloying. A female winemaker from Alto Adige, in the northern Italian Alps. All of her wines are great, but this Gewurz realy sticks out as a winner.

I started drinking this wine in the 1998 vintage at Pasta Nostra. I think we are on the '05 at the restaurant - although no one ever orders it.

I was going to pick up some cod, but the rain made me run late and I remembered I had some pork and veal in the freezer. I couldn't decide on a recipe, but went with Batali's from the Babbo cookbook - thus the opening the white wine - with a little milk, mirepoux (although I only had onions and garlic), thyme and tomato paste. Still simmering while I enjoy a glass and contemplate opening a red!

Sean Thackery Pleiades XV

A gem of a wine bottles in August of 2006, featuring a blend of 12 grapes, some of which are Carignane, Mouvedre, Petit Syrah, Barbera, Sangiovese, Syrah, Viognier, Pinot Noir and some more. It is a field blend with grapes from St. Helena, vinted and blended in open air wood barrels in Sean's backyard in Bolinas.

I was first turned onto this wine in Nantucket, with XII - no vintages, just batches (one a year). Sean is a real genius. We were lucky enough to get XII through XV for BONDA and a few cases for ourselves.

This batch is super smokey when first opened, revealing the Syrah and Barbera. With ten or so minutes, the wine mellows to raspberry, herbs, black cherry - a fresh mix of red fruit with a soft mouthfeel and mellow tannins. The Pinot Noir and Mouvedre showing through - the Carignane playing with the Viognier - light and intense. The evolution of the Pleiades is quite something to discover.

I made an dish for dinner that I learned in college. It is orzo cooked in chicken broth and herbs, briefly stir fried with yellow and red peppers, garlic and chicken. The flavors of the wok fried chicken went surprisingly well with the wine - the peppers adding interesting interplay as well. The thyme and rosemary in the orzo also complemented the Pleiades.

This is a wine I can drink all the time, with any dish, at any time of the day. I love it.

Introduction

When I was about to turn 33, I wanted to make a mark and start a writing project that I could see to the end. Many of my other projects, well all of them, did not make it past notes or first chapter stages.

But this was a non-fiction project I could really get into: Drinking 365 different wines in 365 days. Yes, a challenge, a quest, an excuse. If I had thought about it then, the blogosphere would be the perfect place for such a project.

Alas, I did not think of it - but merely made notes on the wines and what was going on in my life. Eventually I will use these notes to complete a book about wine, food, life.

My intention with this blog is to post my original notes on the days they were written - although two years later - while I edit them into something of merit.

The launch date is March 29th, 2008 - my 35th birthday. I don't want to ruin the surprise of the limits I put on myself or what happened during my 33rd year - but as a prequel, I will feature a daily account of the wines I drink until the launch or the regression of 365 wines in 365 days.